No Power from Interior AUX and Ignition Wires

[cafecito]

I'm trying to hardwire a dash cam (Thinkware F200) to:

1. Turn on/off automatically with the ignition
2. Turn on/off using battery power via AUX 4 (for parking mode)

I connected the camera's ignition power cable to the Jeep ignition wire (orange with pink stripe). I connected the camera's battery power cable to the Jeep's AUX 4 cable (blue with purple stripe). I double checked the wire size, and butt connector size to make sure they're all compatible (18 AWG). I grounded the camera wire to the open ground stud in the passenger footwell.

However, neither method is providing power to the camera. Turning the Jeep on does nothing, and pressing AUX 4 does nothing (the button lights up, but no camera power).

I've run through all the basic troubleshooting I can think of:

• The camera works if I plug it in using the 12v cigar lighter, so I know there's no issue with the camera.
• The AUX settings in UConnect are correct.

I've gone through every other suggested troubleshooting forum post I could find, both here and the JL forums:

• I made sure there was no paint in the ground stud.
• I firmly seated all of the fuses in the fuse box.
• I made sure the AUX box was fully seated in the back of the instrument panel.
• I fully shut down the Jeep, closed the doors, and let it sit overnight to reset.

The only other thing I can think to try is see if a fuse is blown, but from what I understand, each power source has its own fuse. A blown fuse wouldn't affect BOTH of these wires, right?

Is there anything else I can try before I call up the dealership?

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[sharpsicle]

Put a multimeter on the wires and see if they're supplying power. I would also recommend taking the dash cam and either bench testing it with a 12v inverter directly or by using a cigarette outlet adapter. You've done that already, so test the Aux wires themselves. Check everything disconnected so you know you're starting off good to begin with. You just want to test each system independently to verify they work before you connect them together. That way, if you find a problem, you know exactly what side of the equation it's on.

At that point, once both ends are verified to work by themselves, the only remaining point of failure is how you connect it.

 

[cafecito]

Put a multimeter on the wires and see if they're supplying power. I would also recommend taking the dash cam and either bench testing it with a 12v inverter directly or by using a cigarette outlet adapter. You've done that already, so test the Aux wires themselves. Check everything disconnected so you know you're starting off good to begin with. You just want to test each system independently to verify they work before you connect them together. That way, if you find a problem, you know exactly what side of the equation it's on.

At that point, once both ends are verified to work by themselves, the only remaining point of failure is how you connect it.

I had already tested the camera with the 12v cigarette lighter adapter that came with it - it works.

I just cut my connections and held a voltage tester between the exposed AUX wires and the ground terminal. No dice.

 

[sharpsicle]

You've isolated the issue to the Aux wire. Perfect. Time to trace down the line to the fault.

Check the fuses with a meter. Some may be blown. If they aren't, see if you get +12v at the fuse terminal itself.

EDIT: It could also be useful to test for +12v at all the Aux connections, for all switches, including the ends inside the engine bay. Would help determine if it's isolated to a specific switch or section or wire.

 

[cafecito]

You've isolated the issue to the Aux wire. Perfect. Time to trace down the line to the fault.

Check the fuses with a meter. Some may be blown. If they aren't, see if you get +12v at the fuse terminal itself.

EDIT: It could also be useful to test for +12v at all the Aux connections, for all switches, including the ends inside the engine bay. Would help determine if it's isolated to a specific switch or section or wire.

I only have a basic light-up voltage meter at the moment, but I guess this is as good a time as any to invest in a better multi-meter. Appreciate the help!

 

[DavidO]

I have the same problem. I was attempting to install a power box as in the Casey250 video () using the ignition powered spare wire in the footwell (pink/orange). My direct battery wire in the footwell, which I have connected to my dashcam has correct voltage and works fine. None of the other footwell-located wires have any voltage even when aux switches on. Aux switches do illuminate when pressed. Checked all connections and relevant fuses with volt meter - no power. Any help gratefully received.
Update: F50 does not have any voltage across the fuse terminals.

 

[cafecito]

I have the same problem. I was attempting to install a power box as in the Casey250 video () using the ignition powered spare wire in the footwell (pink/orange). My direct battery wire in the footwell, which I have connected to my dashcam has correct voltage and works fine. None of the other footwell-located wires have any voltage even when aux switches on. Aux switches do illuminate when pressed. Checked all connections and relevant fuses with volt meter - no power. Any help gratefully received.

We took the Jeep to the dealership, and they found that there was a bad part; something they just called a USB...? I asked for more info, but he said it was just a slang term they used because the component has a USB port on it...?

I made sure to ask if that was the thing, whatever it is, that was causing the power failure in the aux wires, and he said yes.

We take it in for repairs next Monday. If they give us a sheet showing the work that was done, I'll try to get you a part number.

 

[DavidO]

USB. That's got me guessing. Thanks for your reply and I look forward to solving our mystery. Bizarrely, my number 4 aux wire is now working, I haven't checked the others, so I've used it for the power box I am fitting. The spare ignition accessory wire is still on zero volts.

 

[cafecito]

Dude that's weird. I remember the tech we spoke with saying that a couple wires had power, but some didn't. Certainly sounds like we have the same bug, whatever it is.

 

[MAI77]

What became os this? Seems like I might be chasing a similar issue. Thanks.

 

[cafecito]

What became os this? Seems like I might be chasing a similar issue. Thanks.

You wouldn't believe it, but the factory mixed up the wires. Some genius thought that having both an orange wire with a pink stripe and a pink wire with an orange stripe in the same bundle was a bright idea. So, whoever wired up this vehicle got them switched around (understandably).

The whole time, I had my dash cam's ignition/accessory wire going into the AUX3 wire, which wasn't on at all. I finally invested in a good voltage tester, and when the "ignition" wire wasn't producing power, I knew something was wrong. I switched the camera's ignition/accessory wire over to the pink with orange stripe (which was the actual ignition wire), and it came to life perfectly.

I would start with testing your wires for current, and go from there. I put the female end of a bullet connector on each of the Jeep wires, and stuck the tester into that with the black/negative touching the ground stud near the kick panel. You should read just over 12v if the wire is hot.

 

[MAI77]

You wouldn't believe it, but the factory mixed up the wires. Some genius thought that having both an orange wire with a pink stripe and a pink wire with an orange stripe in the same bundle was a bright idea. So, whoever wired up this vehicle got them switched around (understandably).

The whole time, I had my dash cam's ignition/accessory wire going into the AUX3 wire, which wasn't on at all. I finally invested in a good voltage tester, and when the "ignition" wire wasn't producing power, I knew something was wrong. I switched the camera's ignition/accessory wire over to the pink with orange stripe (which was the actual ignition wire), and it came to life perfectly.

I would start with testing your wires for current, and go from there. I put the female end of a bullet connector on each of the Jeep wires, and stuck the tester into that with the black/negative touching the ground stud near the kick panel. You should read just over 12v if the wire is hot.

So I did that just this morning and I'm getting around 12.14 v I believe. In a nutshell here is my issue. I am connecting the RSE sliders and when using their rocker switch, works and triggers as intended. Using the same power and ground cables from their switch to Aux 2 and in cab ground post, I get nothing. I've even tried grounding direct to battery. Yeah I can just use the RSE switch, but at this point, what's wrong with with my connection or the aux switch? I can run my compressor just fine on aux 4.

BTW, coincidentally, I stared at the wiring in the hood a few minutes before seeing your reply and noticed one of the wires didn't look like an aux wire....I should check it since I only did the bigger 1&2 wires.

 

[cafecito]

So I did that just this morning and I'm getting around 12.14 v I believe. In a nutshell here is my issue. I am connecting the RSE sliders and when using their rocker switch, works and triggers as intended. Using the same power and ground cables from their switch to Aux 2 and in cab ground post, I get nothing. I've even tried grounding direct to battery. Yeah I can just use the RSE switch, but at this point, what's wrong with with my connection or the aux switch? I can run my compressor just fine on aux 4.

BTW, coincidentally, I stared at the wiring in the hood a few minutes before seeing your reply and noticed one of the wires didn't look like an aux wire....I should check it since I only did the bigger 1&2 wires.

Those are supposed to trigger on the door opening though, yea? The AUX buttons only turn on with ignition or constant/battery. I thought those sliders worked into the door light that receives power when you open the door.

Am I missing something?

 

[MAI77]

Those are supposed to trigger on the door opening though, yea? The AUX buttons only turn on with ignition or constant/battery. I thought those sliders worked into the door light that receives power when you open the door.

Am I missing something?

They're triggered by magnets and sensors on the door/frame. Weird thing is that a plain old rocker switch makes them function just fine. 2 seconds later connected to aux, nothing. Weird but I might just throw in the towel on this one and use their switch.

There's a separate fused line that goes direct to battery.

 

[cafecito]

They're triggered by magnets and sensors on the door/frame. Weird thing is that a plain old rocker switch makes them function just fine. 2 seconds later connected to aux, nothing. Weird but I might just throw in the towel on this one and use their switch.

There's a separate fused line that goes direct to battery.

Is there a diagram or something that shows their wiring? You got me curious now...

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