Stereo install complete - Alternator Whine Now ??

[ckage83]

Hey all,

Finally got around to upgrading my Mojave's stereo. It was a huge undertaking with that driver side speaker pod but after a couple of days the system is in. Here's what went in:
-Stinger High10 with adapter kit
-Focal 6.5" performance AS component speakers front and rear
-SV adapter plate for the sound bar
-AudioControl 5.1300 (4 channels @ 100 watts) + Sub @ 600 watts
-JL Stealth box with 2 10" subs down firing.

I ran new speaker wire to all 4 corners. The main power wire is run down the drivers side/Signal via Stinger braided and insulated RCA's run down the passenger side.

Initial power up had a little hiss coming from the speakers but I feel like I can dial that out with the gain but when driving there is absolutely a high pitch whine associated with speed. My first instinct is to pull the amp ground which is under the center bolt for the seat and find something more bare metal but I'm reading a lot about the PAC integration modules causing a lot of feedback too.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[mike921921]

Hey all,

Finally got around to upgrading my Mojave's stereo. It was a huge undertaking with that driver side speaker pod but after a couple of days the system is in. Here's what went in:
-Stinger High10 with adapter kit
-Focal 6.5" performance AS component speakers front and rear
-SV adapter plate for the sound bar
-AudioControl 5.1300 (4 channels @ 100 watts) + Sub @ 600 watts
-JL Stealth box with 2 10" subs down firing.

I ran new speaker wire to all 4 corners. The main power wire is run down the drivers side/Signal via Stinger braided and insulated RCA's run down the passenger side.

Initial power up had a little hiss coming from the speakers but I feel like I can dial that out with the gain but when driving there is absolutely a high pitch whine associated with speed. My first instinct is to pull the amp ground which is under the center bolt for the seat and find something more bare metal but I'm reading a lot about the PAC integration modules causing a lot of feedback too.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've had a Stinger for a bit over a year now (without an additional amp), changed all except the 'knee' speakers and added a CV powered sub (power from the battery area and used an existing mechanical connection under the rear seat for ground). No issues, but I think you're on the right track looking at grounds.

 

[Iamstubb]

You've got a ground loop. I came across that in my audio upgrade in my Charger. with the Alpine audio. I tracked it down to the stock head unit. PAC audio adapter, Amps and processors were grounded to the chassis. I got rid of the loop and alternator whine by joining the stock head unit to the same ground circuit.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

You've got a ground loop. In came across that in my audio upgrade in my Charger. with the Alpine audio. I tracked it down to the stock head unit. PAC audio adapter, Amps and processors were grounded to the chassis. I got rid of the loop and alternator whine by joining the stock head unit to the same ground circuit.

This. Whine is almost always related to a ground loop. Make sure your grounds are very solid and use the same point for as many grounds in your system as possible.

 

[Radio Guy]

For ground loop problems its usually the amplifier is at a different ground potential than another component in the system and they try to equalize the ground via the RCA or other low level audio lines and current is flowing on the shield of the audio lines. In these cases it can be very difficult to put all the components at the exact same ground potential but its easy to break up the RCA or low level audio leads with a ground lift adapter or use transformer coupling between the amp and other components. Amazon has lots of RCA type ground lift adapter and also line transformers made for this purpose. You can usually unplug the RCA inputs to the amp, start the engine and tell if that's the culprit.

In some cases there is actually noise or ripple on the DC power from a defective alternator and/or the amplifier has insufficient DC filtering at its input. This takes an elaborate high current filter with a large inductor and lots of capacitance right at the amp to kill off the noise.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

For ground loop problems its usually the amplifier is at a different ground potential than another component in the system and they try to equalize the ground via the RCA or other low level audio lines and current is flowing on the shield of the audio lines. In these cases it can be very difficult to put all the components at the exact same ground potential but its easy to break up the RCA or low level audio leads with a ground lift adapter or use transformer coupling between the amp and other components. Amazon has lots of RCA type ground lift adapter and also line transformers made for this purpose. You can usually unplug the RCA inputs to the amp, start the engine and tell if that's the culprit.

In some cases there is actually noise or ripple on the DC power from a defective alternator and/or the amplifier has insufficient DC filtering at its input. This takes an elaborate high current filter with a large inductor and lots of capacitance right at the amp to kill off the noise.

This brings up another point. When I used to be an installer (Long time ago) we would always run the power on the opposite side of the vehicle as the RCAs.

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