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We are trying to make the most user-friendly JT tube door…

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So what’s the price point? These look very sweet indeed.
I can't promise a price yet, but I'll try to keep it under $700, as I mentioned earlier, It may be a little more expensive than similar products on Amazon, but it will be much lower than the big brands
 
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How about a tube door that hinges down to serve as a ladder?
Bing AI and alcohol

OIG (4).jpg
This idea is creative, but in our area, most JL/JT owners would choose to raise it by 2.5-3 inches, not more than 4 inches, so I'm not sure if everyone thinks that a ladder is a necessity.
Also, the tube door is a rotating component. If I were to make a ladder, would it be more reasonable to place it on the side step? I think there are already many products on the market with such functions, and even many electric solutions (including this image generated by Bing AI, which looks more like it is on the side step)
 

Freems

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A few thoughts…
”…We believe that the thicker tube will give people a stronger visual experience and sufficient security…” Ok, first off your building Doors for a 5k+ lbs motor vehicle traveling on public roadways and off roading, so tube diameter and tubing wall thickness are only part of the safety equation, DOM / Chromoly / 4130 should be used for your doors for real safety from impacts, metal to metal or metal to earth hits. No mild steel, please.

i like your out board tube concept, but please reconfigure your internal tubing design to actually follow the body lines of the people who are riding inside the JT…a tube that follows that protects the hip line and down the length of the passengers leg at a bare minimum.

Everyone loves a clean weld to look at, thats a given in todays welding processes, but again please set the bar High for safety, TIG is the one of the strongest and best looking welds out there. Your pics of your prototypes were not spot welded with a laser, if I’m wrong it was the first time your welder has used that process and machine.

No bags please, I want to see what I’m hitting or about to run over, that’s why I have the stock doors off.

There‘s a ton of cheap crap out there all ready…Build real quality, the best materials, and Make it a head above your competitors products in SAFTEY and I’ll be your first paying customer! Your on the right trail, I look forward to your product updates.

my $.02
 

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Sarcasm doesn’t translate well?
My bad...Fortunately, I didn't intend to pretend that EF is an American brand, otherwise it would definitely look quite clumsy (or goofy?) :CWL:
 
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A few thoughts…
”…We believe that the thicker tube will give people a stronger visual experience and sufficient security…” Ok, first off your building Doors for a 5k+ lbs motor vehicle traveling on public roadways and off roading, so tube diameter and tubing wall thickness are only part of the safety equation, DOM / Chromoly / 4130 should be used for your doors for real safety from impacts, metal to metal or metal to earth hits. No mild steel, please.

i like your out board tube concept, but please reconfigure your internal tubing design to actually follow the body lines of the people who are riding inside the JT…a tube that follows that protects the hip line and down the length of the passengers leg at a bare minimum.

Everyone loves a clean weld to look at, thats a given in todays welding processes, but again please set the bar High for safety, TIG is the one of the strongest and best looking welds out there. Your pics of your prototypes were not spot welded with a laser, if I’m wrong it was the first time your welder has used that process and machine.

No bags please, I want to see what I’m hitting or about to run over, that’s why I have the stock doors off.

There‘s a ton of cheap crap out there all ready…Build real quality, the best materials, and Make it a head above your competitors products in SAFTEY and I’ll be your first paying customer! Your on the right trail, I look forward to your product updates.

my $.02
Thanks Mike, I'm glad to hear your endorsement . 4130 Crmo makes sense, I've been riding bikes since 2012 and I know lower end bikes will use high carbon steel, or what's called '#45 steel'
This material is easily deformed when exposed to high-intensity impacts.
Any serious steel bike accessory would be 4130 Crmo, lighter and stronger, my BMX frame is from Subrosa and the fork is an Odyseey R25, they are both light and reliable, I know it is a strong material, And I guess they use laser welding too.
I'm not sure yet whether I want to use this material on SD1. I just asked the factory how much it would cost if I wanted to use this material, and I'm still waiting for their reply.
But as far as I know, even many big brands don’t emphasize that they use 4130 Crmo to make tube doors, so I’m not sure. Maybe the reason they don’t use Crmo is the high material cost and processing difficulty?
I'm sorry that I can't promise which material I will use, but I will try my best to make all the details of this door as good as possible, because I don't plan to run too many Google/FB ads to sell SD1, I want to spend as much money as possible on making products.(As far as I know, the advertising costs of some Jeep accessories websites will account for 35-40% of the overall cost. This is unacceptable to me. These costs do not bring any benefit to consumers.)
I want my products to be promoted through customer recognition and word-of-mouth, rather than excessive advertising.
If you must want Crmo, I hope people who see this reply can give me a reaction so that I can understand how many people need such materials, and please tell me what price you can accept.
The sample photo we released is just one of our designs. I estimate that we will get a sample of another plan tomorrow. We are seriously considering how to place the internal steel pipes to protect passengers and maintain beauty.
You observed carefully, and I guess you should have extensive welding experience. The photo of the sample I posted did not have any serious welding, the reason being that we were just trying to fix it temporarily with the intention of cutting it off later.
In this way, we can put various 3D printing solutions on the frame to see which one is best placed.
Please rest assured that the finished product will not be welded like this. I will post photos of the welds when the finished product is made.
Don’t worry too much about the storage bag blocking your view. First of all, I haven’t confirmed whether the storage bag is standard.
Even if there is a storage bag, we will design it so that even if the storage bag is not installed on the door, it can still provide enough security for passengers. If you need the maximum view, you can throw the storage bag directly in the bed.
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Excuse my ignorance but can someone who uses tube doors please explain to me why you use/like them. I feel like I’d just run no doors and really don’t understand their purpose. A half door, especially with an upper, is more versatile and looks better (imo).
The only reason I want tube doors is getting on base. I've had base commanders specify Jeeps having to have tube/soft/full doors, some don't care if you go doorless, but when they rotate through every 2 years and more than one has said you need some kind of doors, it's made me want to buy some.
 

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In fact, we have also thought about the idea of arm rests, and we wanted to take it a step further. We found a supplier of PE materials. Their main business is anti-collision buffering for roller coaster seats and amusement equipment.
We are trying to use this material on SD1. On amusement equipment that is exposed to the sun and rain every day, this material can maintain durability for at least three years. I think this is enough for SD1.
This is another design we made. There will be a steel tube inside that is about the same height as the arm rest on the JT original door. If you are driving on the road, you can put your elbows here.
If we were to make PE wrapping, it would probably be on this tube, and there would still be an expanded tube on the outside for extra protection and grip.
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I like this, and I am in the market tube doors. Thanks for sharing!
 

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The biggest let down I have seen on all tube doors, is the latches. If you can incorporate a true automotive style latching system on that door, I think it would be a huge selling point.
Hi Dave, I know what you are talking about, many tube doors sold on Amz will use these locks, which are widely used in filing cabinets and enclosed electric tricycles, The cost of this kind of lock is very low, less than two dollars each.
Some quality brands will use the two locks I have, which are two-stage impact locking structures.
In fact, even if they look the same, there is a huge difference in feel, because one is the original version of a foreign brand and the other is a replica.(The first picture is the original, the second picture is the replica)
The original version can easily complete the two-stage locking process, while the imitation product feels jerky and sometimes requires several pushes to lock it.
I'm looking for high-quality door locks recently. I've already contacted some suppliers and am waiting for them to send samples.
Maybe you are not talking about the lock cylinder, but the style of the entire lock body, but we are not yet able to make door locks with too complicated shapes.
Because this will lead to high mold costs and make the selling price of the product unacceptable, but we will take the selection of the lock cylinder seriously because it involves safety issues.
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We received the 3D printing samples. We reserved some steel plates for the rearview mirrors and door locks, and simply fixed them with tape. There are still some details that need to be modified...
I plan to put a PU wrap around where I put my arms, so that I can have a more comfortable experience when driving, and it can also reduce some collisions when violent shaking occurs, and the driver can put his elbows here when holding the steering wheel.
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In fact, we have also thought about the idea of arm rests, and we wanted to take it a step further. We found a supplier of PU materials. Their main business is anti-collision buffering for roller coaster seats and amusement equipment.
We are trying to use this material on SD1. On amusement equipment that is exposed to the sun and rain every day, this material can maintain durability for at least three years. I think this is enough for SD1.
This is another design we made. There will be a steel tube inside that is about the same height as the arm rest on the JT original door. If you are driving on the road, you can put your elbows here.
If we were to make PU wrapping, it would probably be on this tube, and there would still be an expanded tube on the outside for extra protection and grip.
企业微信截图_17038368192747.png
企业微信截图_17038370023043.png
8f5571f77c1bc1ea7c34f2680eeaf95b.png
Sorry, I found that I made a mistake. The material I planned to use to wrap the Tube should be PU instead of PE. I revised my reply. If you have any questions, please refer to the PU material.
 
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A quick update, we originally planned to use a stainless steel ball for the handle of the latch, after trying it, we gave up this idea... because the ball was too heavy.
We were worried that the ball would swing up and down during intense off-roading, causing the latch to open...so we had to choose another option (anyway, I really like the texture of the stainless steel ball)
We are already communicating with the factory about new samples and we expect there will be progress next week.
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The vertical bars (red arrows) look weird to me. Maybe run a horizontal bar instead? Or two shorter vertical bars that tie in to the existing horizontal bar? Also the front horizontal bar (green arrow) should be level IMO.

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