"Drag link adjustment kit"?

[The Yeti]

So, I've been doing quite a bit of research and coming up with mostly questions.
After getting under there it looks like a simple R&R for whatever might need done. But I'm thinking maybe the tie rod isn't bad. I can grab it as if I'm gona bench the jeep and rotate it amd it will make the "clunk" but if I jack it up and grab the tire (by myself no help for the wicked I guess) I don't see any play. Kinda hard to look and do that tho. But I don't notice anything obvious. Same when I grab the drag link as if I'm gona bench the unit I can rotate it to get the clunck. Thinking I notice it more on the spindle end but it rotates on the pitman end to so I guess best to replace both and the entire unit? Also, is that rotation on the tie rod ends normal?
So far considering the teraflex 0-6" drag link as a replacement basically because it's comparable to the stock unit in price and I'm just assuming without knowing, it's better(I mean 0-6" at least it must be better for these 2" spacer I apparently have) and it looks to cone as a compete unit with both ends

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[JTPatriot]

It would be best if you could have the tires on the ground and have a friend or neighbor "saw" the wheel back and forth, at least a 1/4 turn from center each way and watch your tie rod ends to see if they have any delay in them. the ends move in the direction of steering before the tires do. Could even set up your phone to take a video of each end if no help is available. pushing up and down and twisting really wont tell you much unless they are just plain shot.

The only way to correct caster is to either get the Mopar lift control arms, adjustable lower control arms or install some geometry control brackets on the frame, and then mount your stock control arms to them. Mopar 2" lift arms and geometry correction brackets will be your cheapest route.

 

[The Yeti]

You would think the dealer tech would've suggested that. If Mopar has control arms with more adjustments it would make sense if they said that would be the route to correct the caster issue they said was there. Thanks, ya I figured since I didn't notice any actual play in the ball socket itself and only free enough to rotate a bit that maybe I should do some better investigating before ordering parts. Nothing is obviously shot completely yet so I'll make my highway trip today and hopfully get someone to rock the wheel for me sooner than later and see what I can find. I'm assuming at least a drag link is in my future only based on the dealer techs comments though.

 

[JTPatriot]

So no confusion, the Mopar lower control arms are not adjustable. They are a fixed length, a bit longer than the original to increase the caster.

These are what I am referring to.
68322798AA and would need 2, just make sure they are right for your year of vehicle.

 

[The Yeti]

Thanks for clarifying. Thought you meant adjustable in length. You would think there would be an option out there for that too but I'm sure there is without jumping down that rabbithole at the same time. I'll stick to researching what I'm dealing with now for the time being lol.

 

[Lunentucker]

Thanks for clarifying. Thought you meant adjustable in length. You would think there would be an option out there for that too but I'm sure there is without jumping down that rabbithole at the same time. I'll stick to researching what I'm dealing with now for the time being lol.

What a thread!
There are tons of adjustable lower control arms out there for not a lot of money.
There are also geometry correction brackets, and they not only get the caster back into spec or better, but they also level the control arms, which improves ride quality. Many have three lift height options, so you can customize the caster and suspension correction to match your lift and preferences.

Death Wobble, DW, Death Wobble, DW, Death Wobble, Shimmy, Wander, Drift, Bump Steer | Jeep Gladiator Forum - JeepGladiatorForum.com

Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms | Jeep Gladiator Forum - JeepGladiatorForum.com

 

[The Yeti]

Thanks. I have that first link on a tab right now, been reading off and on. I'll give that 2md one a read when I get a chance too.
Been looking at drag link options since I might as well use it as an excuse to go aftermarket if there's no warranty anyway going forward. I see good things posted about the APEX on here but reading shows mention of it not working with stock wheels/tires. This isn't mentioned on their site tho on the listing for the kit (steel non flip for the best economical option). Can anyone confirm this one way or the other?

 

[The Yeti]

I realize this thread went from the initial question to a bunch more, but that's how it goes I guess instead of making multiple posts.
Anyway just for future reference for anyone that stumbles across this and is looking for an answer. I got a reply direct from APEX CHASSIS on their non flip drag link kit for the 4.5" or LESS "kit". When I inquired about fitament with factory wheels tires and only working with wheels having 4.75" of backspacing which is what I read after some research on here. The quote was ...
"We have altered the geometry of our tie rod ends so that they now fit factory wheels and tires.
You are good to go with that order!" So apparently it now works as a stock replacement on a stock truck too, which seems like for the price is a no brainer especially since when it does wear you can replace just the ends for a somewhat (in this day and age) reasonable price. So now to decide to buy this and wait until it geys worse and really needs replaced OR part stock OEM replacement for the inner link only for 1/3 of the price until the other side wears out and replace that ....

 

[The Yeti]

I've been doing a lot of reading, looking around under the JEEP here the last week or so. I'll be doing some more reading before probably ending up posting some more questions in another thread eventually.
But just want to follow up in here since it's related to this. The dealer here looks to be trying to say I need a caster adjusting "kit" that's basically a caster bolt that requires reaming out the (lower, I assume) control arms bolt hole so you can adjust it a little bit forward or rearward depending on what you need. Seems like I could do this myself with the tools in the shop and a washer if I really wanted to and not the best option. If I'm understanding this correctly I could buy some lower control arms that are adjustable and accomplish the same goal more effectively and without having to ream the holes out (which would probly cause bigger, lasting issues sooner than later). Am I right on that part?
I could pretty much replace the drag link with an aftermarket unit that has replaceable ends and would work better if I decide to modify the suspension later on and give myself an alignment (toe seems way off staring at the front end and they didn't mention that at all) amd buy some adjustable LCA's that would work with stock or modified suspension if I change anything in the future? Am I on the right track here?

 

[JTPatriot]

I've been doing a lot of reading, looking around under the JEEP here the last week or so. I'll be doing some more reading before probably ending up posting some more questions in another thread eventually.
But just want to follow up in here since it's related to this. The dealer here looks to be trying to say I need a caster adjusting "kit" that's basically a caster bolt that requires reaming out the (lower, I assume) control arms bolt hole so you can adjust it a little bit forward or rearward depending on what you need. Seems like I could do this myself with the tools in the shop and a washer if I really wanted to and not the best option. If I'm understanding this correctly I could buy some lower control arms that are adjustable and accomplish the same goal more effectively and without having to ream the holes out (which would probly cause bigger, lasting issues sooner than later). Am I right on that part?
I could pretty much replace the drag link with an aftermarket unit that has replaceable ends and would work better if I decide to modify the suspension later on and give myself an alignment (toe seems way off staring at the front end and they didn't mention that at all) amd buy some adjustable LCA's that would work with stock or modified suspension if I change anything in the future? Am I on the right track here?

You are thinking and looking at this the right way.

Buy some adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable drag link. Set your caster to 6 - 6.5 degrees and use the drag link to center your wheel and enjoy the drive.

Oh and get or set the toe correctly.

 

[The Yeti]

The toe looks waaaay out, like it's cockeyed lol. I was thinking of drilling a couple holes in 2 pieces of flat bar or even bed frame, removing the wheels and bolting them to the hubs then doing measurements from the front and rear from side to side on the flat bar. Wondering if the measurements should be taken with the wheels on the vehicle under weight though when setting the toe?

 

[JTPatriot]

The toe looks waaaay out, like it's cockeyed lol. I was thinking of drilling a couple holes in 2 pieces of flat bar or even bed frame, removing the wheels and bolting them to the hubs then doing measurements from the front and rear from side to side on the flat bar. Wondering if the measurements should be taken with the wheels on the vehicle under weight though when setting the toe?

Mild steel angle iron would work best for DIY made. Bed frame is hard to drill and cut in my experiences and flat strap steel can bend giving inaccurate measurements.

Wheels off and axle on jack stands. Can be done tires on, but easier with them off. Either way get it up on jack stands.

I have some that I got from Metalcloak. I run 1/16" - 1/8" toe with 38x13.5/17"s. Some say 0 - 1/8", personal preference. Just make sure the hubs are set straight ahead when measuring. Then center the wheel with the adjustable drag link you are getting.

 

[fourfa]

Just FYI for anyone that doesn’t know - the stock drag link is adjustable. The reason people get aftermarket drag links is mainly for beefier (and replaceable) tie rod ends. But there should be plenty of adjustment range in the stock drag link length, unless going monster truck with huge lift.

Not sure what the length limit on the stock one is, maybe +6” or something - but not terribly relevant to this thread

 

[The Yeti]

I was starting to realize that, once I started learning a little bit about the steering on these things. But for the cost of the stock stuff vs the cost of an entire aftermarket unit with replaceable ends next time that will work with stock up to 4.5" lift is kind of a selling point on the replacement too.
The more I read and learn though, the more I realize the dealers 'Jeep' guy didn't really have great suggestions for me and if I didn't have some basic mechanical inclination I might have caused more damaged to the unit. I mean what he should've realistically suggested was either go back to stock or put on Mopar stuff from a dealer/manufacturer point of view. For them to tell me I need a "drag link adjustment kit" kind of says it all.

 

[The Yeti]

Well, I ended up going with the APEX drag link (#KIT118). Got it yesterday and put it on last night. Just a couple nuts to get it off (and lossening the RH tie rod end to get the stock drag link outta there) and the install was pretty straight forward without even looking at the destructions. Would've been nice to be able to get a socket/ratchet or impact on the pitman side to speed things up but didn't take all that long after popping that end off with a picklefork. I think I retorqued the tierod end a little much tho after looking up the torque spec. I used the ft lbs for the Apex kit castle nut then see on hereto the tie rod nut should only be 30lbs + 90* or somthin.
Now, I will probably order the longer Mopar arms to get some Caster back I guess. Don't really want to go with that dealers mechs suggestion amd drill out the control arm mounts.

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