Parting together Mopar lift with Aftermarket shocks

[CookieSoup]

So i want about a 2-3 inch lift and 35's. i do overlanding, camping, skiing. in general outdoor activities but no real wheeling just not my thing but i do get in to places most wouldn't go.

I have a Rubicon and was debating the Icon 2.5 or mopar 2 inch lift. i need to keep a heavy rear spring between water tank, canopy, roof top tent, fridge, and gear it gets 600-800 pounds in that back regularly. i figured the mopar lift would retain "basically" the same bed load/tow rating and the icon would since its a spacer.

After doing more reading this morning someone posted the parts list that comes with the mopar lift.... ill be a monkeys uncle they list part numbers for each spring, shock, endlink, lower control arm.... everything.

the springs are 60-70 bucks for the fronts and 70-80 bucks for the rear and 30-40 per control arm.

they want 270 bucks per shock. i know thats not bad for a good shock but i don't think the factory fox shock is worth that

i know i want a better shock with more travel then the factory fox lift shock and i wanted disconnect endlinks to not have to use the electronic crap

so i added up springs/endlinks/lower control arms (correct castor) and im at 470 that gives me about 1000 bucks to buy shocks am i dumb? other then bump stops and maybe brake line extensions but i don't see most kits with them anyway

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[Alabama Mud Machine]

Hmmm...I could keep my skyjacker kit for the rear, and spring extensions, and just get the front springs and control arms for REALLY cheap...Like $250 cheap. Already have sway bar links and front shock extensions (came with the kit), and Fox shocks (JTR). Sell the nice metal 2.5” spacers for cheap.

 

[kelkolb]

You'll need the bump stop extensions also. FWIW, I got the lift on eBay from a Jeep dealer for $1200 and also did JKS quicker disconnects since I have a Sport S. I personally think the shocks that come with it are quite good. I love the way it rides. It flexes pretty well also.

 

[CookieSoup]

yup about 60 bucks bump stops are cheap

the fox shocks don't have the up travel of other aftermarket shocks and aren't rebuild able like a true factory fox shock

 

[kelkolb]

yup about 60 bucks bump stops are cheap

the fox shocks don't have the up travel of other aftermarket shocks and aren't rebuild able like a true factory fox shock

Well the uptravel only matters if you're not going to hit the fender. Your Rubicon will obviously have potential for more uptravel with the high clearance fenders but I can't imagine they're limited much if at all.

Your factory Rubicon fox shocks may not be rebuildable but the ones in the Mopar kit absolutely are. They're a rebadged Fox 2.0 shock.

 

[CookieSoup]

Well the uptravel only matters if you're not going to hit the fender. Your Rubicon will obviously have potential for more uptravel with the high clearance fenders but I can't imagine they're limited much if at all.

Your factory Rubicon fox shocks may not be rebuildable but the ones in the Mopar kit absolutely are. They're a rebadged Fox 2.0 shock.

whatever way you cut the pie i don't want the factory fox shocks

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Skyjacker kit has bumpstop extensions too...Already installed.

 

[Renegade]

JKS springs and their Fox shocks are also available separately if you're piecing together a 3" lift. The JKS Spec 3" lift Fox 2.0 shocks are less expensive than the rest for some reason...

 

[CookieSoup]

don't think i want to go 3 inch

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

So, how much rear lift does the 2" Mopar lift give? I noticed it comes with both F&R springs... If I were to order just the fronts, and the control arms to replace the spacers in my Skyjacker lift, it came with a 1" rear spacer. If the Mopar lift only gives off 1" rear lift, then I could just keep my rear the way it already is, and just buy the 2 front springs, and control arms, and get off super cheap...Since I already ave new grade-8 stainless 2.5" longer sway bar end links (Skyjacker) and new 2.5" bumpstop extensions...and 2.5" shock extensions for the front...

This could be a nice upgrade (springs instead of spacers, and longer control arms) to what I have now for less than $200...And very easy to swap-in...

 

[Squidly]

So, how much rear lift does the 2" Mopar lift give? I noticed it comes with both F&R springs... If I were to order just the fronts, and the control arms to replace the spacers in my Skyjacker lift, it came with a 1" rear spacer. If the Mopar lift only gives off 1" rear lift, then I could just keep my rear the way it already is, and just buy the 2 front springs, and control arms, and get off super cheap...Since I already ave new grade-8 stainless 2.5" longer sway bar end links (Skyjacker) and new 2.5" bumpstop extensions...and 2.5" shock extensions for the front...

This could be a nice upgrade (springs instead of spacers, and longer control arms) to what I have now for less than $200...And very easy to swap-in...

If I'm reading ll of this right, the Mopar lift is 2" all the way around, meaning both front and back will raise 2" therefore retaining the factory rake, SO, I think what you need to do is measure your rake now and see what the difference is after subtracting your front spacer, then adding the 2" coil should get you relatively close to the rear. But all of our gladiators seem to have slightly different rake so yours may be 1/2" different than mine. Also, if you're towing to weighing down the bed at all, a level gladiator can droop in the rear when loaded, something else to think about

 

[kelkolb]

If I'm reading ll of this right, the Mopar lift is 2" all the way around, meaning both front and back will raise 2" therefore retaining the factory rake, SO, I think what you need to do is measure your rake now and see what the difference is after subtracting your front spacer, then adding the 2" coil should get you relatively close to the rear. But all of our gladiators seem to have slightly different rake so yours may be 1/2" different than mine. Also, if you're towing to weighing down the bed at all, a level gladiator can droop in the rear when loaded, something else to think about

Ya, I would think with the Rubicon it would be 2" since it was 3" in the front on my Sport Max Tow. I never measured the rear before and after on mine but 2" is probably accurate since it seems to be a bit less rake than stock.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

If I'm reading ll of this right, the Mopar lift is 2" all the way around, meaning both front and back will raise 2" therefore retaining the factory rake, SO, I think what you need to do is measure your rake now and see what the difference is after subtracting your front spacer, then adding the 2" coil should get you relatively close to the rear. But all of our gladiators seem to have slightly different rake so yours may be 1/2" different than mine. Also, if you're towing to weighing down the bed at all, a level gladiator can droop in the rear when loaded, something else to think about

If this is the case, then my 1” rear spacer and dropping that extra 1/2” off the front, would put it damn near perfectly level, maybe a very slight rake towards the front. Which would be about perfect. I think I might give this a go...

 

[Squidly]

Ya, I would think with the Rubicon it would be 2" since it was 3" in the front on my Sport Max Tow. I never measured the rear before and after on mine but 2" is probably accurate since it seems to be a bit less rake than stock.

You got 3" in the front on the max tow with the Mopar 2" springs? I'm thinking about going this route as well and was curious how accurate the 2" lift really was, glad it's not 1.5"

 

[kelkolb]

You got 3" in the front on the max tow with the Mopar 2" springs? I'm thinking about going this route as well and was curious how accurate the 2" lift really was, glad it's not 1.5"

If you want to verify and you're still on stock suspension, give me your wheel center to lip of the fender measurement and I'll measure mine.

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