New with 132 miles and CEL

[jbehrn]

Just picked up a new Gladiator Rubicon this morning. During the drive home I made a brief stop and the CEL came on; I noticed that the battery display only showed ~12.5 volts and the Start/Stop never kicked in.

I’m about to check the fuses to see if there are any loose (under hood) - are there any other fuse locations I should check?

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[Painkillerspe]

Just turn around and head back to the dealership.

 

[jbehrn]

Just turn around and head back to the dealership.

Dealership is 150 miles away. Not gonna happen…

 

[Lunentucker]

No other fuses.
Was there any indication of rough engine running, loss of power?

If there light is still on and you can find a nearby garage or auto parts store with a capable scan tool you read the code and get more information.

You can also your own tool. Several to choose from out there, but at some point in the future you'll likely want to have one that changes tire sizes, axle ratios, gear sizes, and more. So consider buying more now to have more later.

 

[Lunentucker]

Start stop will not activate if it's hot out and you're running AC. They don't want anyone to die at long lights or delays.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Start stop will not activate if it's hot out and you're running AC. They don't want anyone to die at long lights or delays.

Yes, it will. It has with all of our Jeeps in the last 7 years.
MAX AC, no or full speed fan in defrost mode, no, but with AC on, or the HVAC in auto, it will certainly kick in.
If the cabin isn't cooled to your setting, it will say "cabin heating or cooling" but if it's cooled down to your temp setting and all other conditions are met, it will shut it off. The fan keeps running to continue to transfer heat to the evaporator. Once the cabin temp rises, it will start again.


• Cabin heating or cooling is in process and an acceptable
cabin temperature has not been achieved
• HVAC is set to full defrost mode at a high blower speed
• HVAC set to MAX A/C

I noticed that the battery display only showed ~12.5 volts and the Start/Stop never kicked in.

Was that with the truck running?? If so, then the charging system isn't working.
ESS also won't function if there are any malfunctions detected - misfires, charging system issues, battery voltage too low, etc.

If that truck has sat for a while, the batteries may have been really low and it takes a long time for these trucks to charge them.
12.7 can be seen with a running system if the batteries are charged and the systems determine no charging is needed, or the batteries are hot - it will shut down charging. But normally, you'd see voltages in the 13s and 14s when running.

 

[jbehrn]

No other fuses.
Was there any indication of rough engine running, loss of power?

If there light is still on and you can find a nearby garage or auto parts store with a capable scan tool you read the code and get more information.

You can also your own tool. Several to choose from out there, but at some point in the future you'll likely want to have one that changes tire sizes, axle ratios, gear sizes, and more. So consider buying more now to have more later.

Thanks, the truck is not running rough. I have an OBD2 scanner, but it’s packed away due to me moving (I was digging through my things not in storage looking for it ?).

 

[jbehrn]

Start stop will not activate if it's hot out and you're running AC. They don't want anyone to die at long lights or delays.

Thanks - I picked up the truck and drove it 150 miles mostly non-stop, but there are a few red lights along the way . The temperature wasn’t to high yesterday so I wasn’t running the A/C on max cool. My prior 22 Rubi (totaled) would turn off the engine under the same conditions. Usually the Start/stop displays a message if it is not engaging due to the cabin being heated/cooled. Didn’t see it yesterday.

 

[jbehrn]

Was that with the truck running?? If so, then the charging system isn't working.
ESS also won't function if there are any malfunctions detected - misfires, charging system issues, battery voltage too low, etc.

If that truck has sat for a while, the batteries may have been really low and it takes a long time for these trucks to charge them.
12.7 can be seen with a running system if the batteries are charged and the systems determine no charging is needed, or the batteries are hot - it will shut down charging. But normally, you'd see voltages in the 13s and 14s when running.

My trip home was about 3 hours of mostly non-stop driving with a few small town red lights and a couple of quick stops along the way. Not sure how long the truck sat on the lot before I bought it; the dealership has a fairly high turn over on Gladiators - but the truck could have sat for a fee weeks.

It hasn’t been running or idling rough so I’m hoping it is a battery charging issue. I’m headed to a new dealership today to have them scan the error code. I was hoping that it was a loose fuse but I didn’t find any.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My trip home was about 3 hours of mostly non-stop driving with a few small town red lights and a couple of quick stops along the way. Not sure how long the truck sat on the lot before I bought it; the dealership has a fairly high turn over on Gladiators - but the truck could have sat for a fee weeks.

It hasn’t been running or idling rough so I’m hoping it is a battery charging issue. I’m headed to a new dealership today to have them scan the error code. I was hoping that it was a loose fuse but I didn’t find any.

I've not had problems with fuses but enough people have it's welll worth checking.
Yes, if you can get a code that's a perfect first step.

I'd think 3 hours should have done the truck, but........... with the light, there's something it doesn't like.
If you start it and check voltage, it needs to be above the mid-13s.

 

[Casique]

Hook it up to a battery tender for a day or two!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hook it up to a battery tender for a day or two!

I'll see you - and raise you this -

Using any reasonably reliable volt meter - even a $20 meter from Walmart will handle this...... you don't have to go spend $200-$400 like I did on mine years ago (it's likely an antique by now, sort of like me) I still have my Micronta multimeters from the 1970s and they still work fine for this sort of thing were you only need to get close, a go/no-go sort of thing.

*Open hood, check current battery voltage with engine OFF.
Write it down.

*Start engine, check battery voltage. ***
Write it down.

*If the battery voltage with engine not running is 12.4 or more, yeah, put a battery tender on it.

*If the battery voltage engine not running is < 12.4, put a good AGM charger on it - one that can go through all 3 phases (there are more with some chargers, but the first 3 are the most important.

*** If the battery voltage with engine running is not in the mid 13s or higher, you have a truck issue - charging system issue.

(as a side note - Check fuse N3 - if that's blown, the aux battery won't get a charge from the alternator)

Or - take it to the dealer ?

 

[jbehrn]

Long awaited update:

1. Voltage checked out fine this morning (13+ on the drive to the dealer)
2. Truck still runs and idles smoothly

Dealer scanned it and came back with this diagnosis:

1. Minor misfires on cylinders 2,3,4
2. Needs new cam phasers due them being off on their timing : model year 20-21 has a PCM software update that can resolve the cam phaser issues, unfortunately it’s not available on the 22 models (maybe due to the new computers?). Service advisor told me that she had seen a few 22 models showing up with the same issue and that the cam phasers resolved it.
3. Dealer did not find any issues with the cam shafts or rockers.

I have the work scheduled for the 12th. Fingers crossed this solves it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Long awaited update:

1. Voltage checked out fine this morning (13+ on the drive to the dealer)
2. Truck still runs and idles smoothly

Dealer scanned it and came back with this diagnosis:

1. Minor misfires on cylinders 2,3,4
2. Needs new cam phasers due them being off on their timing : model year 20-21 has a PCM software update that can resolve the cam phaser issues, unfortunately it’s not available on the 22 models (maybe due to the new computers?). Service advisor told me that she had seen a few 22 models showing up with the same issue and that the cam phasers resolved it.
3. Dealer did not find any issues with the cam shafts or rockers.

I have the work scheduled for the 12th. Fingers crossed this solves it.

ESS won't function if there are misfires so that sure can explain that.
Yes, there have been issues like you describe.
So, the middle cylinder on the right side (3) and the front 2 on the left side.

Sounds like maybe they can do you some good, and are at least willing to do so.

 

[jbehrn]

ESS won't function if there are misfires so that sure can explain that.
Yes, there have been issues like you describe.
So, the middle cylinder on the right side (3) and the front 2 on the left side.

Sounds like maybe they can do you some good, and are at least willing to do so.

Yep - Looking forward to the CEL light and the Uconnect alerts going away!

I’ll update the status once the works completed.

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