Oh wait, let me shift my brain out of Rubicon mode.
Because yes, the only times I've used 4LO I've also had the lockers engaged.
I keep forgetting it's not standard across all the trims.
Okay, if I understand this all correctly, you want to cause the FAD to be disconnected while the JT is in 4LO.
Well, in my simple brain, this won't give you 2LO, you'll have 3LO and a hell of a pull to the left.
The FAD has nothing to do with the front axle being powered, it just locks the two...
Okay, spitball time.
Buy a ticket for a jet ride. Rent whatever U-Haul truck/van that is rated to tow the boat, one way back home.
Get it home and do the goes intos and such and figure out exactly what you need.
If you've done all the normal trouble shooting and found nothing, try removing your steering stabilizer and see if your problem goes away, stays the same, gets worse.
Steering stabilizer can cause problems in some cases. But it almost always masks the real problem.
If your track bar has been a...
Hostility is everywhere. Directed at one brand not so much.
In your area it's Toyota drivers, in my area it's Ram drivers.
I'm sure in other areas it's other brands.
You're just witnessing the lack of courtesy on the road. Used to be everywhere, all the time.
Now it's rare to find courtesy.
Go to their website and watch the vid(z) about installation. The "ears" to catch the hole for a hitch pin get cut out and you put your locking hitch pin through.
As to the stolen part, get a locking hitch pin and do a slight modification to the plastic ears and viola.
The connection is plug and play. They have an inline harness that plugs into 7 pin and then a connector that goes into back of hitch receiver and plugs into light.
I can't help with your direct question.
But if you have the factory hitch receiver and don't tow, switching it out to just the factory frame to frame brace will gain you some real estate too.