I had my suspicions that it was low from the factory when I bought it new. Made an appt with dealership specifically to check the fluid about a year ago. It’s quite obvious to me they didn’t check jack shit. Plus I could tell because they never touched it. The same dust/dirt on the pan around...
Removed a good amount of metal particulates from my 8 speed today. 4 1/2 quarts came out….5 3/4 quarts went in. Only 18k “old man” miles on her.
Where’s all the peeps who think these are “lifetime” No fluid change transmissions? Lmao. Good luck with that kinda thinking.
There were a few good posts I found along with this diagram/drawing from Hootbro. Like he told me, there isn’t a step by step description out there yet, maybe I’ll write one up and post it somewhere in the forum.
Edit: just noticed it says added jumper between N1 & N2…..thats just a typo, it’s...
Removed a few unnecessary bits n bobs. Didn’t have to remove the PDC (went thru inner fender liner) and somehow didn’t loose any settings having the batteries out for 2 hrs. Fired right up & no idiot lights. Someone went crazy with the tesa tape at the factory tho, lol.
2nd pic just shows the...
Anyone have a recommendation on a good upgraded main batt? Going to delete the stupid aux batt soon and figured I would upgrade the main since it will be the only battery and its 3 years old. Just started looking….any other options out there? Am I looking at the correct size/group?
2020 gasser...
Another dumb question….will leaving the IBS throw any codes or dummy lights then? I would have left it connected anyways because I didn’t see that as being removed on the nice diagram he made. This is why I like to ask a lot of questions sometimes.
I was thinking of fabricating a piece of metal to use instead of a jumper wire. Like a flat U shape with the ends folded at a 90 for the lugs. With the U being flat along the side, if you can picture that. Stupid idea?
Thankyou very much. I want to eliminate all the extra wiring when I remove the aux batt like you did. I was assuming that N1 & N3 would need power from somewhere after doing so, but you jumped them together without adding a power lead to either one, is this correct? I’m also assuming you have...
This is exactly what I want to do. I do have some questions tho. Do you jump n1, n2, & n3 together? Is there a thread just for this exact way of doing it? Ive been searching & reading threads for hrs, but keep finding the aux battery replacement threads. Ughhh
Back to this kinda shit again. Ever look into who pays for articles like these? JD Power & all the rest. It’s a giant bunch of false information to get you (the consumer) to buy their junk and feel good about it. The manufacturer who pays the most gets the best ratings. IMO
I totally get what your saying. Here’s my thought on it…. You will never here of a case where they admit they built a pile of garbage. They would move mountains to blame it on anything other than their complete lack of quality or whatever you wanna call it.
They are a criminal organization, and...
lmao. I’ll send u pics of my engine when it finally does blow up from detonation/pinging. Although, I bet you a hemi conversion that I have the worst case of it.
Correct. Recall? Lmfao. The NHTSA is paid for by companies such as the FCA. They are a complete farce. Just like JDpower. People who believe those kinds of reports and statistics need a real life wake up call. Or they can be sheep for the rest of their lives, doesn’t matter to me.
Im no expert, but with the number of people (myself included) who have gotten another shitty steel box, it’s quite clear they never fixed the problem in the first place. That problem being the horrendous tolerances in the machining process. When they switched to steel vs aluminum they might have...
Can we somehow get the team at Nessen to make a country wide training video/instructions for all the other dealerships that don’t know how to do anything correctly???
Asking for a friend.
The few clips ive herd of the guys with manuals having that noise is a completely different noise than what i have. Like someone else said…there are a few ppl on this thread that dont have the same metallic rattle that this thread was started for so it does get a bit confusing.
This sounds 100% correct to me, but the only way to fix it is to spend $2k on getting the pcm unlocked/new pcm, correct? Thats some fn ?? right there. I got a star case open about it too, needles to say they dont give a single f either.