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And yet even back then I heard how unreliable jeeps were, point exactly. Reputation rarely matches up to reality is what I've found.

The problem with reputation is that it's based on vehicles of 20-30 years ago not current production. Toyota is a prime example, they're coasting on reputation while the current gen tundra and Tacoma are dumpster fires. People will still tell you how reliable the Toyotas are though. This guy...

I get it, but he's talking about 600 lbs and I'm talking about 2500 lbs and I still had about 4 inches between the bump stops and the cup. At 600lbs it doesn't sound like he needs higher rate springs, probably needs different springs front and back instead. Maybe 4.5 in the front and 4.5+ a 1...

Only 600lbs and you need higher spring rate? Trying to understand, is it more lift you want, less squat? I've had 1600 lbs back there in tile, 600lbs in the cab, and my mods on Clayton springs and I still wasn't on the bump stops so just trying to understand why you need that much spring rate.

I've gotta ask, how much weight you got back there?

I'll note that the gladiator passed the sae test, which is up and down the davis dam with a full load, in control and a bunch of other reqs. Not sure what size tires you have, but realize that by not regearing you've really diminished the already somewhat anemic torque that the 3.6 has...

Yes, people think that to tow something it needs to not be noticeable back there. The reality is that unless you tow often, you'll always notice it back there and you should always account for it. I've towed our 4.6k lb camper from Florida to pigeon forge and back, up grades and down grades...

Looks like a gladiator 4xe test mule was spotted recently.

I lurk still, waiting for hella yella and/or a more powerful power train impatiently to stimulate sales

Mine was loose from the factory. 18 inch 1/2 inch wrench and a 42mm socket took it off with out even having to resort to cussing.

As much as I like throwing parts at things, the correct answer is the 2 foot driving honestly. The shock isn't a bad thing to try, but just 2 footing it will be the most effective

Truck tires will have inflation charts to show weight based on inflation as it's not linear. I will say 28-30 actually sounds about right for an unloaded gladiator though.

Not to mention people quote depreciation against an MSRP because they were the COVID car buyers who thought paying more than MSRP was a deal. Now with 25%+ off of MSRP to start the depreciation really isn't that high

13 mpg is bull shit unless he's doing 85 up hill lol. I have a 4xe on 39s gets 15 on the highway 70-80 mph in Florida. Basically the same as my gladiator on 38s We had to have the battery replaced as part of the recall, other than that 4 years so far of great ownership. Liked it enough we...

If you like your fenders, yes

In the right light its a beautiful color, i was hoping it would be a bit more like ocean blue as it comes off near black most of the times i've seen it though.

I'd say the internet disagrees with these engines being problematic overall. The 3.6 is one of the most reliable engines on the market, but it's also one of the most produced so it's easy to find examples of failures that are actually an extremely small number in comparison to the ones on the road.

If you don't have a locker that makes sense. With Rubicon already I did gears for 1k an axle, truss for 300 bucks. The tube thickness is .4 of an inch on gladiators so not much to gain spending the extra money on a UD44. I don't consider ball joints a failure as they don't need trail repair...

The part that fails the most is the axle itself where the tube for the fad is plug welded. That's where you see all the taco'd axles. I went ahead and did the C gussets and the axle truss, got it welded on locally for 150 bucks.

Truss the axles then, knuckles and ball joints are only needed if you plan on going really fast over whoopy shit, but trussed axle is cheap and it's the main fail point.