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Yep, that’s what I’m talking about. Yellow dots are the lightest area so it’s marked to be placed at the valve stem location.

No need to heat it or cut threads. If you remove the antenna, no antenna, then no radio signal.

I’ve always been a fan of the OEM fenders because they pop off when hit, they’re light enough to carry home, easy to pop back on, and a little heat from a torch with another piece of old fender material can press in the texture after you press out the big gouges. These rigs can become expensive...

I was seeing what people were paying for to replace their antennas and thought it was strange to get rid of what works. I’ve always modified my OEM Antennas on my Jeeps and thought I should share it.

This one is out of stock but look for something like it. This one was $14.99

Amazon sells a kit filled with all the necessary Rivets and Fasteners for $14 I just use pliers to pull the rivets with a flatbar body tool to hold the rivet in place.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA:CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::CWL::LOL::headbang: Jeep Gladiator forum, right?!

My current setup has no weights, nor are they needed. 40” Toyo MTs on KMC Tank Beadlocks. Mounted at home and spin balance checked at NTB to see that no tape weights nor balance beads were needed.

Yellow dots are the lowest weight area of the tire that is intended to account for a 1.5 ounce tpms or similar valve stem.

If you want to know, call any tire manufacturer or just look on the website of a reputable brand. Toyo shares that information about yellow dots and such.

That picture shows why Discount Tire is a poor choice for tires. The workers aren’t aware or taught about basic mounting skills that any tech should know. Yellow Dots should be placed where the Valve Stem is located. (Red Dot indicates a low spot and not needed too often) Those Dots are a tire...

This comparison is hurting my brain! Seriously comparing a Honda Element to a JT is brain dead. How about we all Jeep wave to Smart cars and Motorcycles because they should all be compared as well due to having engines. The JT still does better than a Rollerskate uphill. Maybe we should race the...

10k would not cover a dream build for me. This was my build with upgrading the stock axle housings just to survive 40” tires…. It might have cost another $10K just to have larger, stronger axles. And this was with me performing all labor except the regear. $2100 Regear with labor $2400 Wheels...

Muffler Bearings

When I search, it always pulls up the same one under different names and prices. I’ve seen poor reviews so I didn’t buy one. I bought the Sunrider and it’s been great.

Not the same issue but my tazer has been intermittently displaying that the lockers and transfer case are locked in 4WD even though I’m driving at highway speed and it’s in 2WD. It displays on my EVIC dash display but no other lights show. It’s been happening since I upgraded my gears so...

Great work! Show some more pics from a few steps back.

I’m curious if everyone is on the same page with the idea of it being the soft, roll-up, soft-top-material cover with no frame structure but with crossbars. Yes, it’s normal to get water intrusion with high pressure spray, just like a soft top on your roof. I don’t go through any car washes...

~Installed Reid Racing Knuckles. ~Cut the Rancho passenger coil spring isolator to get rid of bowing ~Installed a Trackbar Frame Brace but their sector shaft piece wouldn’t line up and their hardware was garbage so we removed/replaced the steering gear box and drilled out and tapped the holes...

It’s a 2306BHS Winnebago at 7+ foot wide and approximately 25 foot long weighing 4,600 pounds dry. Towing with 6.5” lift, 40s, and built most places but retain stock housings Upgraded gears to 5.13 and love it! Towing everywhere as I live in it half the time for work. (And it doesn’t drag that...