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It's definitely louder, but the speakers are still garbage.

That's cake work for your truck. Enjoy the ride and move!

The gas is all the same. It's the additive package that's mixed in at the distributor that's different. The additives are mixed in as it's being pumped in to a trailer for delivery to a gas station. So, yeah, you're getting the same gas at a Shell, BP, Wawa, Quiktrip, etc. It's the additives...

CAFE 100%. I've been a long time Ram and Hemi owner. It's pretty common issue for lifter tick and cam failure on 5.7 Hemi's. One of the thing we/I have been doing for years is going from the recommended 5w20 to a 5w30 or even 0w40 oil with high moly content. Redline, Amsoil, Pennzoil Ultra...

Modern engines take 20,000 - 40,000 miles to completely wear in. Send samples to Blackstone. You'll see elevated levels of iron and copper for at least 20,000 miles. 5000 miles is fine for the first change. After that, let her run until the indicator comes on. Or send samples to Blackstone...

Not gonna lie, not a fan on the "raspy" sound between gears.

I haven't taken it in yet. I have a laundry list of items for them to look at. Hopefully I can get it in next week.

I ran switched power to behind my glove box. There I added a cigarette lighter plug. Ran the dash cam cable to there and plugged it in. All hidden.

Yes. Across the top of the windshield, down the passenger side A-pillar and in to the dash behind the glove box. Grommet for the main harness coming through the firewall is there.

Hard wire it to switched power at the fuse panel. Easiest way.

The OEM wheels go for $250-300 new each online. The tires are also $250'ish new each online. That being said I've seen sets of 5 new take-offs going for $1500-1600 local to me.

I did a 12 hour round trip to Showshoe in my JT. The seats aren't bad, as in I didn't have any discomfort. That being said the seats in my Ram are worlds ahead in terms of comfort. I do wish the seat bottom was a tad longer for a bit more thigh support. But that's just me nitpicking.

My JKR pings on 87 as well. I run 89 in it all the time. The JT seems mostly happy on 87, so far. We'll see when summer comes around.

I'll run 87 for normal driving. If I'm towing my boat I'll put 89 in. Like mentioned. Higher octane is reduce detonation. Under load and heat engines have a higher chance of detonation. If that happens the ECU is going to pull timing, therefore reducing power. I'll spend the extra couple bucks...

Not really. The frame side bushing is solid. There should be no play in that bushing at all aside from a little flex. Same with the axle side. If I had to guess the bolts are too small for the bushing sleeve. That's where the play is.

Happened to me last weekend. There's a little spring loaded detent in the hinge that gets stuck. Reaching in there and pushing it up releases the seat. I'm still taking it to the dealer for it. Mine constantly gets stuck now.

Where is the play located? Axle or frame side? Frame side should be a solid bushing with the axle side being adjustable. Is the hardware sized correctly? Like, if you drop the frame side and slide the bolt in is there excessive space in the bushing between the bolt and sleeve?

And it's very easy to program. Have it in my JKR, JTSS and Ram 1500. I leave the opener remotes at home as backups.

If you take an average of like 1.5 ounces of oil per 1000 miles that the can catches. Then an average of 18 miles per gallon, which is 55 gallons of fuel over 1000 miles. You're talking about burning roughly 0.00021094 oz of oil per 1 oz of gas. Or roughly 37 gallons of gas for every one 1 ounce...

You can put a catch can on any motor. It goes between the PCV and intake manifold. Catches oil vapor blow by that would otherwise get dumped in to the upper intake plenum. Some people swear by them. Says it keeps the back side of the throttle body and intake plenum clean. *shrug* ... I pulled...