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You’re gonna get violent at the next Jeep owner that waves at you?? Pfft riiight…??

Run from Austin to W TX. Flat road, zero wind, cruise set at 75. This is with 4.56’s and Yokohama 35’s. Gearing calculator I used was dead on for speed/rpm with 4.56’s. Everything is properly adjusted for gearing, tire size, and shift points with my Tazer.

Thank ya much. Tonneau cover and the cage keep it pretty well protected. The tank location is basically unused space and sticks out no further than the wheel well.

Any pics of off road pages with the Jeep at operating temp? Notice the trans temp is only in 80’s so I assume Jeep isn’t fully warmed up?

Way to stick to your Guns. Most folks on this forum act like you shouldn’t even try when it comes to getting a dealer to pony up in scenarios like yours because they think the consumer doesn’t stand a chance. Persistence pays…

4.56’s/ARBs finally installed. My rig is on 35” tires. Been breaking them in mostly but I saw 18.5-19 mpg bucking a 10-11 mph head wind on the 100 mile drive back to my home town from the shop that installed them running 75. Mileage seems at least as good as it did with 3.73’s. It holds 8th...

I started to use the big 813 Fab box mount. Didn’t like how much space it took up and how it limited my cargo rail options. I’ll have it for sale soon at a discount if anyone is interested… Get a nutsert tool and use your imagination. I ended up fabbing this up instead.

What sustained speeds are we hitting here?

Anxiously awaiting your report on how it works ?

I guess somebody needs to try running some 2.73 gears on stock sized Gladiator Sport tires to see what kinda mileage we get at cruising speed just below 1400 rpm’s ? I got way better mileage with the motor turning in the 1900 rpm range in 8th gear on stock tires at 70 mph than I do now with it...

All I know is mine did it bad after adding an Arcus bumper/winch and 35” tires, even on a 1.5” spacer lift. I attempted to add Metalcloak bump stops but they bottomed out like steel on steel in the cold especially. My Ecodiesel Sport is a 2021.

I tried Rubicon diesel takeoff shocks on my Sport Ecodiesel. Not even Diesel Rubicon shocks were up to the task. My experience mirrored yours. Jeep bottomed out worse with the Rubicon versions than it did stock shocks. I have since moved to the Mopar diesel specific 2” lift (up front anyway)...

Bout the most practical information that’s been posted on this subject. I‘ve got a Banks Derringer, 35’s and 3.73’s and notice similar effects to what you describe as well.

All I know is after switching to 35‘s which actually measure closer to 33.5” tall my Gladiator drops into 7th pulling slight grades and bucking head winds very regularly. My Jeep gets driven a 300 mile trek pretty often so that’s not a fluke. On stock sized 31’s (actually closer to 29.5-30”)...

Weird, found plenty of posts in JL forums about guys recommending regearing with diesels. Most don’t because of expense and the fact that the diesel does tolerate tire changes better than the 3.6. Hell, AEV recommends 4.56’s for 37‘s for their builds on Ecodiesels. The diesel “tolerates“ the...

Reading all this makes me glad I went with Banks…

4.10’s aren’t worth the effort. You’re gonna be 200ish rpms lower than stock with 4.10’s and 37’s vs 3.73‘s and 31’s. Borderline lugging the motor. Efficiency will go down I’m betting. Minimum 4.56‘s for 37’s, 4.88’s are better…

Similar deal here. I went from stock 275/45/17’s to 35’s and mileage went from 28-29 to 20 on highway. I hope to gain a little back on MPGs going from 3.73‘s to 4.56’s with my Yokohama 35’s. I have no illusions that I’ll get a lot back though. Fighting weight, leverage, and aerodynamics that...

With all due, I disagree. Worthwhile mods are definitely eye of the beholder. That said ARB’s were goin in anyway so why not I figured on the ring and pinions? I have installed quite a few sets though. The labor aspect definitely isn’t cheap no doubt.

I myself would choose 4.88’s for 37’s for what it’s worth. I pull a camper occasionally though.