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I recommend folks take the time to look at an actual rpm calculator. Take into account actual tire size, vehicle speed, and trans ratios. I plan on running 4.56’s with 35’s (measure 33.5” actually) for a little more grunt towing my camper and it puts my Sport S Ecodiesel a little over 200...

No irreversible cutting. I tried stock bumps and MC branded stops both with and without the extension pads. In my opinion the factory front spring are just flat too soft. Especially with a winch/bumper combo. Just my experience.

Seen some Amazon reviews that also claimed the Metal Cloak stops were stiff in the cold. Mileage varies I’m sure dependent on components involved. In hindsight, yes I’d try the Falcon bumps over the MCs.

I too prefer a more level stance, maybe slightly rear high. I haven’t installed them yet but plan to try them with the 3/4” spacer that’s inbound. Currently have rear JT Rubicon Diesel shocks in place in back. I also have Timbren overloads in the hind end so I bet the Mopar 2” shocks will be...

I tried it both ways, with the spacer and without. Spring rate on the stock springs after about 15K miles anyway was so weak it would blow through the travel and still bottom out. Bought the MetalCloak bump stops thinking they’d be able to soften things up as they are marketed as a progressive...

My Ecodiesel Sport S bottomed horribly even with the 1.5” front spacer kit. Tried switching to the Ecodiesel Rubicon shocks and it made it worse, Arcus front bumper and winch are in place which added to the effect I‘m sure. Moved to the Mopar 2” Diesel lift and its night and day in ride...

I just went from the Teraflex 1.5” leveling kit up front to the Mopar 2” Ecodiesel specific lift. Ended up only installing the Mopar springs, Fox shocks, and control arms up front. Mine sets 3/8” higher in the rear without touching the backend at all now. I do have a steel front bumper/winch...

Pulled Tazer and any probs with the Derringer never manifested anymore. Updated firmware on Tazer to most recent and for now my issues have seemed to go away. Put it through a cpl sleep cycles as well.

14,000 trouble free miles on mine. Zero leaks.

My Derringer has continued to have problems and fault codes. Talked to Banks again and they recommended trying the Derringer without the Tazer module in place. I pulled mine and have been driving it for a wk. Not a single fault with the Banks set up since. Apparently there can be some...

Mine threw the IDash code once more and the Derringer module cut out again. Was just driving around the ranch putting around at 15mph. Called Banks and one of their techs had me go into settings and change the wake up sensitivity to very low on the gauge and also change the start/stop mode to...

I’ve got a Tazer as well and just tried clearing CEL’s too. I didn’t have any codes stored, did you? Won’t be driving it again until tomorrow on highway. Let me know if it continues to work for you pls. Gonna try this before contacting Banks again.

I have been having exact same issue with mine and same code thrown. Will be contacting Banks shortly. No EMP Shield on mine and start/stop is disabled. Firmware has been updated as well.

I certainly won’t go as far as to say the Magnuson-Moss act is a magic bullet to get around denied warranty claims. That said, if someone actually takes the time to read the letter of the law, the burden of proof is absolutely on the dealership to prove your mod caused a failure. I’ve seen it...

If the tune you’re running imposes “massive stresses“ on your engine you picked the wrong tuner…

Good looking setup but not exactly cost effective

Gotta give Banks customer service some props. I called to get a replacement wiring harness for the one I damaged during install completely expecting to pay for it. I explained I damaged it due to my own negligence. They wouldn’t hear of letting me pay for it and sent me a fresh one for the...

Location?

I also cut down the little stainless bolt that clamps the pod around the gauge with a Dremel to shorten it. Its too long when not used in conjunction with the arm on the suction cup mount.

I should’ve been more proactive documenting the process but it’s really simple. I drilled a hole to pass a 10mm bolt thru the side of the gauge pod and held it up to the a pillar about where I thought it should sit. Then used a silver marker to mark a spot on the a pillar thru the drilled hole...