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They don't stick out bad but I like the looks of a little "poke" on Gladiators and Wranglers. -18mm is just the right amount of offset IMO, I still just barely rub on the lower control arm at full lock with the 12.50" tires so any less offset would take away from my turning radius. I also rub...

Absolutely nothing different about the install from the Rubicon to the Max Tow that should drive the labor price up. Dealers are all over the place and rarely consistent on anything. Count how many service writers they have there and you'll get that many different prices if you ask all of them...

Thanks! Yep, Black Rhino Abrams Gunmetal, 17x9.5, -18mm offset. Tires are 37x12.50 Yokohama Geolander M/T's

Here's a very non-glamorous side shot I took this morning:

This one: https://www.mcmaster.com/8240A76-8240A23/ 120 grit for ID size 1.5-2.0" Don't forget the shank adapter: https://www.mcmaster.com/8240A41/ Use a little wax or WD-40 to prevent it from loading up with aluminum

Report back when you get it if it fits. .025" isn't much, but it's more clearance than I would expect on a machined part like that. You might have to enlarge it a hair. You could use something like this to get that done if needed: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/2929

Did you contact Clayton? They may have a solution.

I don't have any since I installed the bumper and winch, I'll try to get some this evening.

If it's a rotational "jerky" feeling relative to speed I'd definitely look at the front tires. If you can't see anything obvious like signs of separation or any missing weights try rotating them to the back and see if it changes.

If you're running the rack and RTT all the time I'd keep the 1" front and 3/4" rear spacers. I have the same lift kit and I'm just running a 1/2" front. I've got the Arcus front bumper and a Warn Evo 12S winch, so it offsets for that pretty well.

Following. I kind of like the thought of using the Paramount plastic ones.

If it were me, and since you say that you wheel it frequently, I'd do the rear control arms and be done with the lift first. This way you can get the pinion angle set right and get the additional flex.

I just ordered a set of these from TMR to use for when I do my RPM 2.5 ton steering upgrade next week:

I'm more worried about the threads getting corroded and seized at the TRE's. I would definitely use anti-seize, but I've seen reports of galvanic corrosion happening even with the use of anti-seize in one of the Gladiator Facebook groups I follow.....but who knows how reliable that is.

Have any of you with the aluminum kits had a significant galvanic corrosion issue?

I'm struggling to find any deals. $950-$1000 is about where I'm finding the price starts with the stabilizer brackets.

I'm getting ready to upgrade my steering and have been eyeballing the Rockjock/Currie system, which can be had for ~$700 and includes the steering stabilizer relocation brackets. Does anyone have experience with this kit? I searched and found very little. I'm trying to weigh this vs spending...

I saw those, they look nice but they sit pretty low. I’m concerned that my Mopar soft tonneau cover wouldn’t roll underneath it..

Folding or rolling tonneau cover? Is your Gladiator a 2020 or 2021?

Do you have the steel or aluminum rack? Do you leave it on all the time, or remove it when you're not using the RTT? I think whatever I end up with will only stay installed about 25% of the time, so something easy to install/remove would be ideal. Billiebars might be what I end up with, I...