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I'm planning on making the trip from TX to do this trail in June. I'll have a RTT mounted on a mid-height bedrack, so that'll probably make it even more sketchy ?

Does anyone have experience with the Voodoo mid height rack and mount brackets made to be used with a tonneau cover? I did see one other member report a while back that it damaged the bed of their Gladiator, but it appears that they've redesigned the bed mount brackets going from a single-bolt...

What part of TX are you located in? Do you happen to be seeing the crossbars shown in your 2nd picture as well? (looks like Billiebars)

I can't get over how cheap and flimsy it looks, especially the rear window. For the same price you can find a lightly used Mopar top.

Nice truck! You could piece together a minimalist el-cheapo lift but you'll end up with a truck that rides and steers like crap. To get to 2.5" you're going to want to do front and rear track bars (to get your axles centered back up), control arms (to get your caster and pinion angles right)...

Looking to buy a premium soft top, preferably in the DFW area. PM me if you have one for sale!

Looking to buy a premium soft top in the DFW, TX area preferably. PM me if you have one for sale!!

Yeah, you're right....what I said doesn't make any sense. Obviously with a solid axle caster split can't be changed.... I wasn't thinking. What's odd is when I installed all of the control arms I measured several times, and even passed a bolt through both ends of the control arms sitting side...

I understand that it's a solid axle, but you also have a little give in the control arm bushings. After installing my Clayton lift I ended up with a caster split, 5.4 on the lift and 5.8 on the right. It pulled to the left as well. I was able to shorten the left upper control arm one turn to...

I would also insist that they put a torque wrench on every single bolt that's suspension or steering related. I did this myself and found a lot of it loose, especially my ball joints and steering gearbox bolts.

If you've already centered your axle with an adjustable track bar, and confirmed it's not a radial pull, check your caster angle. If you've got a caster split from left/right it will pull to the side with the least caster angle. Get some adjustable uppers and dial it in.

Under what conditions does the oscillation happen? Hitting bumps? At a certain speed? Here's a thread where someone posted the Mopar lift kit torque specs: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/torque-specs-sway-bar-links-track-bar-shocks.33193/ Found this over on the JL site...

I'm wondering if you got a rookie alignment tech and he put the heads on wrong.

Does it seem like it's following irregularities in the road? Getting some caster angle back will help. I would look into adjustable upper control arms at the least. Also if you don't have adjustable track bars get those as well so you can get the axles centered up.

The only situation that factory warranty coverage might be an issue is if there is a problem caused by the work performed. As others said, I would do a leveling kit while your in there, 1.0-1.5" spacer kit if you want to get rid of the rake. An adjustable track bar would be a good idea to...

Do you have a pic of your rig with these installed?

How was the fitment with your RR skid?

Wish you were closer to DFW, I could use that skid.

I put one on a few months ago. The only fit problem I had was with the winch tray. I had to hammer it in to shape a bit before it would fit between the frame rails, and it was still a tight fit. I have no problem with the bolt on recovery hooks, they are stout and sandwich between the frame...

Unfortunately JL sliders wouldn't be long enough for the JT.