Road Force is a balancer sold by Hunter. It replicates the behavior of a loaded down tire rollling on a road surface. It is the most accurate way to balance tires, especially large truck/Jeep tires.
If you are experiencing what we call “death wobble” it can’t be corrected unless the wheels are...
Deals last year were smokin' on Willys. I got one for a daily driver last October with the LED pkg, tech stuff, nav, premium sound, blah, blah that stickered for $59,500 or so, it was $45k out the door, less a reasonable trade for my '13 F150. Gladiators & Wranglers are stacking up at the local...
Dealers generally won't do gear set changes simply because their techs aren't trained to do gears. The necessary tools and intricacies of gear setup aren't ptrovided by the manufacturers' service training orgs any longer. The factory will just have them swap out the entire axle assembly.
As for...
JKs all had drain plugs on the lower sides of diffs and IIRC the earliest JLs & JTs had them. Probably deleted for cost saving reasons. Apparently they now have a reusable cover gasket. Adds someone to a fluid change.
In the AM 1) I press “Start”, and after it does so, 2) I press the “Stop/Start” button and shut the SoB off. I look at it as a means by which I extend the life of the very expensive starter by 500% or more. Any fuel savings from these crock of crap systems will be flushed the first time it...
And here I am living 1,000 feet above town with a descent down there on a 45 mph twisty steep road thinking “ This is the best cruise control I’ve ever had in a vehicle.” Silly me.
I was going to try and by this thing from Teraflex but they wanted so much BS account setup crap I refuse to participate in the game any longer. WTF, I just want to by your G** D**N product! Cheezizs K Reist!
The issue you havce with the stability control light is caused by the steering wheel being off center, not the axle. On a dead level surface with the wheels straight ahead adjust the drag link until the steering wheel spokes afre as close to horizontal as possible. You wont see the light again...
I did the Teraflex 1.5” kit in the front of my ‘23 Willys. I added to it the lower control arms from the Mopar 2”lift and Tera’s 2” shock extensions. All works together well and the JT sits almost level, just a bit if take remains.
The stock bolts are 14mm, not 15mm, and Grade 8 is considered the SAE equivalent to 12.9.
The stock, fully threaded track bar bolts are fine 1) IF they stay tight, and 2) IF the vehicle remains within the stock suspension travel limits. Add a lift with more travel and the tolerance difference...
9/16” bolts match the actual size of the holes in the frame and axle brackets. Shank bolts are stronger and eliminate the tendency for the slightly smaller 14mm fully threaded bolts to oval out the bracket holes. Tried & true practice.
A practice that started with JK and is still applicable to JL/JT, use a grade 8 9/16” shank bolt and a stover nut, torque to 125-130 ft lbs with wheels on the ground.
Gears aren’t a place to cut corners. I’d definitely go Spicer for Jeep. The reason people didn’t use them in past years was they only offered whatever ratios were OEM. Over the past ten years or so they’ve gotten deeper into the aftermarket, with more gear set offerings. The best used to be...
I've had nothing but trouble getting the Hotheads headliners to stick on my '23 Gladiator. Followed the instructions to the letter, nope. They eventually fell right off. The tape stuck to the hard top but cames off the plastic ribs on the Hotheads panels. I tried plastic Gorilla Tape and for a...