I learned to hate steel wheels on my Jeep TJ almost 20 years ago. Ever since solid axles and coil springs was introduced, precise balancing is a must.
Often, after aired down off road, I would develop a wobble. I must of hit a rock or a stump just enough to bend the steel wheel and throw it off...
On the TJ, I stuck them under the unlined hood. Some went on the plastic boxes I store camping gear in.
I will not be sticking any on the Gladiator unless they come with a monthly advertising check!
I came from two 1985 Toyota 4x4 pickups. Last year of the solid front axle.
2004 TJ X was my first Jeep and learning experience. Axle swaps, lockers, gears, etc. I told myself I should of bought the Rubicon.
2016 JK Sport 2dr. 3:21 gears. Are you kidding me? I should of bought a Rubicon...
Maximus-3 shows them mounted on the outside of the frame rails on their website. So, that is how I mounted mine. So did my friend on his Gladiator Sport. So did another buddy on his JLR Wrangler.
None of us has had any problems.
If you off road frequently in wooded areas, I would go for the unpainted. I have a nice scratch on top of my fender from branch on a narrow section of trail. The body made it through ok, but the front fender didn't. It is barely noticeable at a distance, but I can definitely feel it when I run...
I am glad that you are ok. 100 mph? Lucky nobody was killed. Looks like one of the Gladiators drawbacks (long protruding bed) helped in this case.
This is so maddening, and why insurance rates have skyrocketed. No tickets, no accidents, but my rate goes up every year due to uninsured claims...
I used the shock extensions with the factory Fox shocks.
I got the control arms from Allmoparparts.com
Search results for: 'Genuine Mopar Front Lower Control Arm 68322798AA' (allmoparparts.com)
Closest I got. They are just cheapo lights I got off Amazon to try. I read on this forum that the amber cube lights do not ice over like the factory led headlights and fogs. They were right! I was going to upgrade, but these are still working great after a winter of snow and ice.
I have one. I like it. It was inexpensive and looks closer to a factory stubby than anything out there, since mine didn't come with one. Drilled holes for the cube lights. Drilled holes for the flat towing breakaway switch and towing light outlet. Works with the Maximus-3 flat towing loops...
I threw on these wheels and tires that I saved from JK when I first brought home the Gladiator. 315/70/r17 Patagonias on stock JL Rubi wheels. Some minor rubbing at full lock. This picture is with a Teraflex 1.5" level kit.
I did. Discount Tire was the shop who would not mount some used Grabber Red Label 37x12.5x17, but they would do a 315 Patagonia. Maybe each tire brand has their own wheel width requirements. DT follows the manufacturer width requirements for insurance purposes.
Holy smokes. I was looking at the same tires. I ended up going with the Mastercraft Courser MXT. Got them at $270/tire. 37x12.5x17. Made by Cooper Tires, and quite a bit lighter. 69lbs each.
So far, my rails have just been an expensive dune flag holder. An idea from another forum member using Unistrut parts. But, I had to run a flag with the tonneau cover open. So, I made my own flag mount to run over the top of the bed so I can run with the cover closed.
Next up is fabbing some...
Questions: What are you using for your light set up? What are you using for a supplemental brake system and how is it powered? Are you making sure your ignition is completely in the OFF position?
I've flat towed our Gladiator all last summer. Just trips limited to 4 hours or less. I have not...