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Yes, we know you would. The problem here is that if we as warranty holders step out of line from their rules, like went over on time or milage just a bit with no proof of damage, warranty is restricted, but then those that give warranty, over fill by 2x’s + and engine runs hot (248F) because of...

Yup, this ^^^. They won’t do a tear down to look for damage if it’s not heard. I’d be doing oil analysis reports to watch for elevated wear metals. The reports alone, if bad, isn’t enough to kick the “concern dial” of the dealership up because they aren’t trained to know how to read them and...

Yes it was…and the rad by taking off the skid plate, front plastic grill, fan housing, hose out the rad from both sides and all underneath and the transmission heater/cooler and and ….

The problem could be a carbon plugged filter. Have you done your own oil changes and cut open the filter to inspect it? Does it look like the pics below? Low oil pressure code isn’t always just a failed sensor. What is for one can be something else for another. I never had any oil pressure...

There’s nothing wrong with first change at 600 miles, I do and was never confused what engine I was looking at. If someone here could make a sound argument for leaving the first change for way longer, I’d at least consider it, but old good habits are hard to break and nothing bad ever came of...

Here a couple pics of the one time I did this and a bunch of mud got in the diff.

I pushed through water as high as that and the front differential had a nice layer of mud in it. Have a look at your front diff breather hose, it could go higher but it doesn’t. I’d be pulling off the front diff cover and give it a clean.

Silicon is dirt and manufacturing debris. Good thing you dumped it. Your next couple changes will show lower numbers.

For all you 90k + diff change guys and gals, when you do pull the magnetic drain plug and see that nice mound of filings, if you have lockers, the locker sensor magnet will have the same amount of filings on it too. This will explain locker engagement and disengagement problems/slow response. If...

This may change your mind.

If the zip tie is not attached, just pull it up or untwist it off the stud. If it’s just a useless piece of nothing, once you take out the bolt, hack saw the threaded post off or just leave it there. I have the 21 JTR and it looks like I have the same bolt as in the part replacement and do not...

Looks like a zip tie holder thingy that positions on the threaded stud and is securing the harness

Welcome back. Do tell, don’t spare any details.

Is loctite a good idea here?

The locker communication glitch wasn’t the diff sensors nor packed up sensor magnet with filings, it was a culmination of oil ingress in the sensor connectors in both diffs, dirty actuator connectors on the outside of both diffs and doing a maintenance electrical spray cleaning of the 3...

Cleaned the actuator connector today and the locker issues finally cleared!

The weekend was busy chasing down the locker communication issue. I pulled off the back panel under the window, spotted water that had leaked from the window a while ago that had run down behind the panel and onto the sub woofer and Alpine module. The DTCM (drivetrain control module) is also...

The only way you’d scientifically know with hard data is to get two oil analysis done. Do a full run (pick your milage) change the oil and grab a sample for the lab, then replace the oil filter for the upgrade and do another full run, same milage and pull a sample. If you see a “significant”...

Scary! “How’s this for wear pattern?”, you ask, @60k miles? Here’s mine at 82k original miles (annual oil change on both). Hope your front looks better!

I was having to think back when I too had the bypass cable for a ThinkDriver diagnostic dongle/phone app, and cable had to be installed and removed a few times (hook tool was best, kept my hands out) but then after awhile of this constant install and removal, I upgraded the diagnostic reader to...