Took some photos with the bore scope guys! I’ve got the pan on, hand tight, waiting up 45 min to torque so here’s some photos for your advice/comments
Why I was switching through the different oils was to find one whose additives would help reduce the iron levels in my analysis reports. (All oil changes were analyzed and iron always maintained wear numbers at least 3x’s + higher than what y’all are seeing in your lab reports)
I wasn’t seeing...
You’re the second one to say that it looks like conventional oil was used. I’ve thought many times…did I get a new engine when the second, paid for by insurance, was put in?? Price tag was over 10k cad for it. But why did this engine come shipped with 6L in it and the tech assumed it was shipped...
Got the pan cleaned and just put it in place with a couple nuts to keep the dust out and went to bed. I’m now back at it after a couple coffees to clean the RTV off the engine side. Im using Xylene solvent and a plastic knife to work the crap off. Lacquer thinner flashes off too fast.
Every one myself.
Let us not forget when I picked up the truck from having the second engine put in 3 years ago, October 1st, 100k kms ago, i immediately had to do a road trip of 1600 kms to BC to the mine site to clean up and winterize it.
When I got back home, I dumped the oil for its first...
I have no clue. It looks like I’ve never changed the oil. Wish I could fill it up with brake clean and give it a good run. Before I did my last two oil changes, I dumped in 1/2 can of sea foam and ran the first one 500 kms and the second one was 800 kms.
Well, here’s why I pulled my engine oil pan. I could say because the engine turned 3 years and 100k km (60k miles) October 1st so, why not see what was sitting in there but the real reason is the carbon capture in my many filters caused me concern so I did my oil change last week, put a bore...
So, reviving this thread to ask the application process for Mopar Threebond engine RTV 68082860AB.
I picked this stuff up to day to pull my engine oil pan and of course theres no instructions on the process and timing of pan install, finger tighten bolts, wait 15 min, wait an hour, two or three...
If anyone is interested in what oxidation is and what it does. This article is a great read. The links within are full of valuable information.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/14/lubricant-oxidation
Super impressed and it didn’t take the two of you long at all! What’s up with that crappy spark plug? Were they all that way? Was there any part of that you’d do differently?
First address the issue through warranty if you still have it. I don’t have warranty but taken all these large multi pin connectors apart and cleaned them with the DeoxIT spray. No issues using this. The spray also lubricates the pins so mating the connector back together is very easy.
I wish I took pics. There are a couple explanations for the clunk. It took the driver to work the steering wheel while I probed with the stethoscope
1. Main clunk noise was loudest at the shock at hard setting and softened when setting was moved to softer setting where I heard more of the oil...
You’ve come a long ways since April having never heard of this in all your years.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/automatic-transmission-fluid-change-interval-s-on-2021-jt.47662/post-1499900
I guess it’s easier to just resolve the fact the transmission is mostly forgot about...