Search results

There’s definitely some members that have commented on how many bottles they buy and what goes in. I personally have done a few of these and not commented on what came out. I’ve only made a mental note and then when I’ve topped back up I’ve said, ‘well that’s about right’ and it’s been a 1/4...

Also, if you were curious how to get into the filter casing to check out the filter but wasn’t sure how to get it open…. This is a simple and practical way to accomplish it.

What torque setting did you set the bolts too? I don’t hear of too many snapping bolts unless they guessed and went too far. There should have been instructions for that with the new filter unless you didn’t replace that?

Greeny colour… power steering fluid, and/or transmission. Would expect it to be darker though unless service was done recently.

Ya,…settle on the cool side of the temp window and finish running the gears then. Go drive it, watch the temp gauge. There’s no instructions from ZF to raise the back end if “you feel it needs more”, so don’t do that. It wants what it wants with frame level and cool side of temp window.

You’ll want to stay frame level. If you’d like more in there, run the gears at 90F and finish the levels by 92-93. The hotter you wait, the less that goes in. Don’t jack the back end up and not be level.

Level frame. 3.5 is right for initial fill till fluid dribbles out, engine is off. Plug the fill hole and start engine. We don’t wait here for temp window, start engine and immediately get underneath, pull plug and fill, should take another 2 - 2.5 quarts. If we decide to wait… pump will suck...

To add to my post, I also have the Expel PPF satin body wrap and the rear fenders have a double layer of wrap on the front facing surface to have more rock protection. Hinges are also wrapped. (It came that way from the previous owner that didn’t want to scratch it)

Short answer to keeping the road grime off the sides of your truck is to have some kind of rock rail or flat step attached. My 21 JTR had the Weather Tech flaps but I also had the down angled tube rock sliders and my sides never saw the crap. I’ve recently got into a 23 JTR with the factory...

These are the modules back there as mentioned by @DylanM above. The evidence of water droplets in the dust was from the little leak at the window, and that’s from being all buttoned up. A good down pour or habitual rain all summer will have you regretting your decision.

🦾

Put er in drive and go!

Grab a torque bar and visit all the front end nuts and bolts. That’s where I’d go first. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/%F0%9F%94%A7-2020-2023-jt-gladiator-torque-values-all-of-them-in-one-place.67915/

The trick to “being seen” especially if you’re creating the dust cloud behind you OR if you are an emergency first responder in the day or night during thick fog is to have lights that strobe in “spot” and “linear”. The “spot” part of the lens with the Strob N More I have posted will pierce...

I currently use this between the gate and bumper. I have it set to strobe amber/clear to support the E series strobe bar up top. It can also be set to burn steady in amber https://strobesnmore.com/products/strobes-n-more-tail-gator-taillight

Like this? Watch the videos. They have steady burn as well. https://www.speedtechlights.com/tailgate-warning-light-bars/48-inch-dual-row-truck-tailgate-led-warning-light-bar

Moral of the story is can’t assume anything is done right. Check what you can with what you have.

I think the lone oil topper up guy got fired and moved over to Chrysler assembly line to be their oil guy. He’s probably since been fired from there and now works at your dealership.

I recall back when I had my 17 TRD Sport, manual, I drove that 16k kms before draining oil in manual tranny and diffs and all 3 components were 1/2 full from the factory. I was pissed I drove that long with insufficient oil.

I had two transmissions that came much higher from the factory. The initial portion amount that comes out should always be suspect for being wrong. The steps taken once pan goes on, to assure proper levels, is what can be measured again later.