So I just looked at my torque wrench and it only goes up to 150 ft lbs. Uh Oh. :facepalm:
Ordered one that goes too 250 ft lbs.
Reminds me of the days when I had to remove/install VW rear hubs.
It had a castle nut on it that was torqued to 220 ft lbs.
I’d use a Sears Craftsman breaker bar and...
Yikes! Sounds like fun?
I’m planning on renting a bay with a hoist here for $20/hr. My garage is heated but the floor isn’t. That cement stays cold and never warms up here in winter temps. The hoist should make it much easier to work on with no crawling around. We’re older and nowhere near...
I know. No tears in MY beer. LOL
I'm trying to prep all I can before the rest of the kit arrives in a couple weeks. Stuff like loosen brake lines, remove spare tire, jack up rear, lower axle to drill/tap the 4 holes in the rear diff. I'll probably do that this weekend. Just little stuff...
Yeah yeah yeah. Rub it in.
$2,187 from 4Wheelparts,
no discount code,
6% Michigan sales tax;.
Free shipping
Turns out Polaris bought them a couple years back and they have dealers in every state so they have to charge sales tax.
Live N Learn
Damn. I ordered from 4 Wheel Parts and paid about $150 more for mine. About $20 more for the kit without a discount code, (Normal price) and $131 sales tax that Northridge don't charge. Oh well......
Really good advice here and thanks. My install notes are growing.
How about using Loctite and torque the Rear Lower LCA’s complete prior to install and if I need to dial in pinion angle, or alignment, then do it using the uppers. ????
I’ll pay extra attention to clearance issues at full droop...
Geez. Now they come out with coilovers after I just got my front Fox 2.5’s with remote reservoir and DSC.
Would be interesting to be able to compare triple and quad rate springs to the dual rate coilovers.
Also there is no adjustability on the RRD coilovers is there?
I like the idea of setting the dimensions without Loctite, installing, set to torque after install, and having shop check it right away. Then back the jam nut off and apply Loctite and final retorque.
I set the front control arms to length already and one thing I did which varies from...
Good to know. And yes I agree it isn’t rocket science and pretty straight forward for Toe and Caster.
I also checked toe when I was having the “wandering” issue. Turned out to be tire pressure at 42 psi with OEM MT’s.
So, OK, I’m getting out the Red Loctite......... :whew:
Have you taken yours in and had the alignment checked or just driving as you installed it and “it feels OK”?
I guess the worst would be to let the mechanic know he might have to get out the propane torch to break em loose if needed.
I’d be afraid of destroying the teflon bushing inside if not...
If we are supposed to use Red Loctite on the jam nuts then how are we supposed to get an alignment afterwards?
That doesn’t make adjusting too easy.
That mechanic might be inventing some new curse words I would think. :swear:
My front control arms showed up today and I was setting them to the...
Excellent tips! And Thank You!
My only worry with tapping the holes in the rear diff case are accessing the bosses from the top.
I found a YouTube video showing how they did it but can’t find it again.
It showed using a Milwaukee cordless ratchet wrench to run the tap in, which I have one, and...
I meant to say diameter. The rear spring is a larger 4" diameter?
Also 4WP is showing Part #: RK07460 and RK07328 as being part of my kit which does not include the seats.
Shouldn't those part numbers should have a K at the end of them according to the RK site. (RK07460) and RK07328K)