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Do a re-torque yourself at ride height. Lift the front axle put a prybar under your tire and lift. If it feels obviously loose then order up a set of balljoints and toss them in. Weekend project and your good for a long time. Its an easy swap all things considered.

I want these but holy expensive.

Im relocating mine out of the grill area!

You have a bad part or loose part. You will need to find it. Most of the time its in the track bar or track bar bracket and most lifts come with new for that reason. A small problem can push and become full on death wobble anything from improperly torqued control arms to a loose pitman arm or...

You have to remove the insert to fill off fuel cans which I do regularly or try to pour it into the POS funnel that I already lost along the way. Now you just pour the can in. Easy peasy. Before it was seriously a disaster.

it’s because the end link is so hard to rotate. The balljoint on it is very difficult to turn. This resistance causes it to work the nut loose on rough fire roads and such. I’m going to be using a prevailing torque nut should fix it.

I have a derringer, pedalmonster, idash, stinger height 10 (w/ PAC) and Tazer. All are working properly with no issues last 8k miles. I do get an error occasionally on the idash on startup. It clears shortly after.

You mean by cooling the "coolant" flow through the heat exchanger? Did you keep the the radiator water still circulating or bypassed it? If upgrading the coolant heat exchanger had no benefits then the factory heat exchanger is likely undersized for the application? I might copy this setup...

You need more uptravel unless you like smashing bump stops. I put the teraflex falcon extended bump stops on my metal cloak 3.5". It gave me a full 3.5" lift in the front and sometimes wish I had another .5". I would go hydraulic or air bumps if you can. That would be an even nicer ride than...

Put on the Maximus 3 bed rails. Unfortunately it doesn’t cover the back of the bed. Hoping to purchase another rail cut it to fit with some brackets so under bed rail items are 100% secured

They offer the ecodiesel for this reason.

I left my fender liner intact. Broke the piece out of the filler tube then inserted a new piece.

Oil temps over 240 seem to initate ECU to start limiting power at highway speeds. This is prior to a dash indication and Derate which is a limp mode. that seems to happen around 260 degrees. A gentleman on facebook gets derates on his grand cherokee ecodiesel and he put a huge 3 row aluminum...

Those are pretty extreme issues. You can weld on artec trusses pretty easily just go slow and allow time for cooling so you dont warp anything. On my JK i did the front artec in about two hours. Balljoints I think they make a balljoint eliminator kit now...

The metal cloak lift has a spacer on top of the 4.5" gas springs for the diesel to compensate for sag. On the front you can put those metal shims above the stock upper spring. The bottom spring pad in the front or spring isolator is what is different between diesel and gas to correct factory...

Get a mushroom plug gun kit off amazon. Ream the hole large enough to insert pump the gun and pull it will be done in about 1 minute. Also you should use rubber cement for tires so it bonds well. Clip off excess. You can do it all without even deflating the tire much less debearing its done...

So far they are pretty amazing for the price and weight. I ran the tires down to 4psi and had incredible traction but the decreased ground clearance was an issue without skid plates. I feel like I should have gone for 40's.

I do not believe they are more firm. Less bouncy? but small bumps etc are softer than stock. then again my factory front suspension would hit the bump stops CONSTANTLY on a sport S. The rubicons have additional height which leads to less bottoming out for sure. Remember the factory clevite...

https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-front-coil-spring-spacer-set.html This is what you need to purchase to level your jeep. I would wait until all armor is in and you get everything situated.

On diesel models they compensate by using a thicker lower spring isolator on one side. My metal cloak lift leans a bit too about 1/2" or so. A solution would be some type of LOWER spring spacer as the tops already have spacers. Theres also leveling shims avail.