I personally like A and would rather have more light. I apologize for my ignorance but am not aware of why we would need to legally have reflectors on rear. So if it is required then B will work. I agree with other and like the idea of wiring that is plug and play.
Following. Definitely looking at possibly going this route. Or may just start over once they release the 392 in the Gladiator. Hopefully it won't be long, very cool in a Wrangler....absolutely needed in a Gladiator.
Following and looking forward to updates on this thread. I'm looking at the Magnuson. I have a buddy who is an ASE tech so the warranty isn't an issue. I'm on 37s right now, 5.13s and one piece RCVs are being installed as we speak, but will likely be going larger and upgrading the axles to 60s...
I'll keep you posted. It should be fine but will see. The stock front shaft will only last so long before the front boot tears from flexing. Then an aftermarket will replace it. To me, the only downfall is how quickly I'll have to go to an aftermarket shaft.
Agreed...had a Comanche back in the 80s. Couldn't stand the vacuum system, had it fail me and replaced it a cable system that was available at the time.
I will. Technically it should be fine but I'm prepared to throw an Adams front shaft in if needed. Wouldn't surprise me if Jeep doesn't have these all well balanced given they aren't spinning full time like the previous JKs
Yes, got a delete plate from cavfab.com. N.o sense in leaving it hanging off the axle. The tazer allows you to turn it off and I can just ziptie the wire and plug up into the engine bay
Wow...very interesting. Glad it all worked out. I'm getting ready to install a set in my JTR but will be going with one piece shafts and deleting my FAD.
Mine JTR goes in tomorrow to have 5.13s with master kits, RCV one piece axle shafts and the FAD deleted. I'm having it done by my local Jeep dealer who is very mod friendly and they sell modded jeeps regularly. Looking at about 1200 or so for install. Plus they assured me that my warranty won't...
I installed my spacer lift today. Ended up going with just the 1" spacer from the Teraflex kit. My JT was a full 1.5" higher at the fender lip than the front as it sat. Now it is just a 1/2" higher. Definitely looks much better. I though about doing the full 1.5" but decided against it as I...
I'm running RockKrawler's 3" lift and have a stock driveshaft. I don't anticipate any vibration issues but if I do I'll swap out the driveshaft for an Adam's shaft. My JKU has a 5.5" kit with Adam's front and rear driveshafs and no vibrations. Hopefully won't be an issues. Not a big fan of the...
I ended up up with 5.13s. After speaking with people from many vendors, both retailers and manufacturers they all agreed that 5.13s are the way to go. I'm currently running 37s but will likely go up in size a bit as well but also want towing ability. Just got my gears, installation kits, and one...
Mine will spit when it is done filling and spit fuel out of fuel door onto the fender and flare. I'm going to have it looked at when I take mine in to have new gears installed
Same here. I have an '08 JKU Sahara on 37s. I went back and forth and ended up with 4.88s for 2 reasons, one it is a 6spd manual and two, it has the Dana 30 front axle. I have to say I don't regret it because it has plenty of pep and pulls hard in every gear. So when I saw others recommending...
I'm just at 10K on mine. No issues either. I'll let you know how the RPMs are. The differences between are 4.88 and 5.13 are relatively small but it seems that with either ratio people are happy. I'm happy with how my Gladiator runs with the 4.10s but I want it back as close to stock if not...