Search results

You won't need a spring compressor. Make sure you put the extended rear brake lines on the correct side. Don't tighten any of the control arms until the weight of the jeep is on the suspension. Get a REALLY long torque wrench. 200 lb/ft is a lot laying on your back.

The front looks normal. What is your caster set to? I added a driveshaft spacer to the rear of mine, helped that angle a little.

It's definitely a thing on JTs.. I know 2 people I wheel with that have ripped them off with zero damage to the rest of the jeep. They normally rub them on trees when off-camber.

look at the pictures I posted at the cowl BETWEEN the windshield hinges. They are NOT the same.

I forgot about the 392. It uses the same as the mojave and 4xe. I know the 4xE are different than the others since one of my best friends has one, and we park next to each other all the time. No way they are the same.

The Mojave and 4XE both use different cowls than every other version of the wrangler/gladiator. It's why you can't do a 1:1 hood swap. Look at the windshield hinges.

The bugout looks like it has the high cowl of the 4xE, but I think the windshield is laid back farther. So a 2 door JLU, with extra room behind the rear tire like the mid 2000s LJ. I don't hate the look, but I wonder if that windshield angle is foreshadowing to the JM.

Bug Out concept has a steeper windshield angle than the others.. I kinda like it.

With 3" of lift, a rear track bar relocation will help. 37s are what I run, what load range and what PSI? I found the shudder over bumps on mine was loose steering box bolts (added the metalcloak steering box and trackbar brace) and my ball joints were smoked at 28k miles.

What about the ride is it she doesn't like? Is it rough? Does it sway? Does it crash over potholes and shudder?

Zach, did you bolt yours on or is it welded?

I think for most people, 35's are the tolerable limit for 4.10 gears (gas). They are also the perfect size for the diesel on 3.73 gears. Go drive them both and see what you prefer. The diesel has amazing torque, but expensive out of warranty repairs turned me off of it.

Both engines have their separate sets of issues. What is your ultimate goal for the Jeep? Big tires? Lift? Trails? Commuting?

You can't get a diesel in a mojave. The only diesels you are going to find are leftovers. What are your plans for it? Towing?

Ahh, that makes more sense. So to swap the axle shaft, you still have to pull the entire hub? It MAY increase tow capacity if they can keep the engine cool. Wranglers get all the fun goodies and Jeep leaves us in the wind.

the full float isn't really a full float.. the long jounce tubes stink. The 4.56s are great and should be available on all the models anyway.

That plastic piece is the cover for the adaptive cruise module when you fold the windshield down.

yes, it should be safe after 20-30 minutes.. the Z fuse is the one that normally pops in that process, and they are a lot more expensive than the clips on the fenders.

I think I would try pulling the passenger front tire, and removing the entire inner/outer fender, you don't need the battery tray out, you just need it out of your way.. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/aux-battery-replacement-the-easy-way-pull-the-fender-flare.56807/ That shows...

The official fix requires removal of that fuse box, but there are a couple gotchas doing it.. what are you replacing the oe box with? Have you already removed the aux?