Just curious, does the amp you used have an RCA for sub frequencies?
I keep hoping someone will make an easy button to amplify all the cabin speakers and give sub RCAs to keep it super simple.
Rears are typically longer, but go on Clayton's website and look at their recommendations for the fox 2.0s for their 2.5" lift. That should get you a pretty close starting point. If those fronts are the same length (26.5") look at their recommendation for their 3.5" kit. You may have to add...
Currently running Clayton 3.5" rear springs, but I'm totally open to changing whatever needs to be changed.
Long term plans were to move to either king or fox 2.5s
For sure.. I haven't done it yet, but I've got pretty close more than once.. After they rip one off, everyone buys the oracle ones to replace the factory lights.
No worries at all. I think I would prefer welded anyway, but that eliminates one of the big pro's the RK has over the rusty's.
I'm trying to minimize the head toss I get out here on these bad rural 2 lanes.
It almost feels like the rear of the jeep levers the front opposite corner down...
Since Rusty's and RockKrawler both make a triangulated 4 link, what are the pro's and con's of each?
They are essentially the same price, Rusty's kit looks like it has to welded on, where RK says you can get away with just the U-bolts, but I'm a little skeptical.
If you have either, what are...
It's a tall lift. My Clayton 3.5 ended up at 5" up front.
You CV joint will self clearance a little bit, but if your front shocks are longer than 28.5 extended, be prepared to replace it soon.