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I finally found one of the threads from way back that references the rear UCA and LCAs xref to a ram 1500 too. So maybe they saved some cash there, and then just used a lighter duty axle with similar pick up points.

The new ones yes, but the ram classics from 2014- when the JLs were in development uses some version of a dana 44.

Not 100% positive, but it's why the back half of JTs aren't the same as the JLs and why we got stuck with the crazy short uppers in the rear.

I'm guessing because the rear axle was lifted out of the ram 1500 and they didn't want to spend $ changing any more stuff on it.

some do, but not all. I had a set that I had to drop all the way to 10psi to get even that much wrinkle. Not an issue if you have beadlocks, but I certainly don't want to run any lower.

28" is typically safe. Longer than that you will deform the flange on the TC end of the driveshaft. Mine extend to 28.5 and it has deformed the flange playing in the rocks, but no permanent damage yet.

Stiff, they don't comform to terrain aired down to reasonable levels like a C does.. If you are towing heavy, look at the inflation tables for the tires you are considering, but my 37s at 30 psi are still over the factory tires at 37psi. E rated would be down in the mid/low 20s.

Thats a pretty obvious difference, is the +4 you have different from that +2? Can you put a layer of fuzzy velcro on the +2 and gain another mm?

That's a GREAT tire for your use case. And you won't need tires for 60,000 miles or so.

Do you have the original and the +2 inside the house from that side? I'd like to see where they changed them.

Most 315/70 17s will allow using your stock wheels.. OD is still pretty close still. I also wouldn't recommend an E rated tire unless your rig is really heavy or you wheel in the Southwest where rocks and thorns are constantly trying to rip a sidewall.

I've never seen 240* in the summer. Even after crawling for hours in 4L at 4mph. Mine is a manual, so maybe the trans cooler on the automatics makes a difference? I've seen coolant temps in the low 230*s but the oil stays below 220.

@ShadowsPapa did you grab a pic of the new part before you swapped it over?

Honestly, that doesn't look terrible. As long as your pinion isn't angling down, which would give you 6+ degrees of caster, I wouldn't stress too much. If you measure the angle on the edge of the output flange, does it measure zero?

Can you snap a pic of your front diff/driveshaft from the drivers side wheel? Behind the wheel is fine. Using your angles in the pics, you either have 5.5* or 6.5* of caster. I couldn't tell if that 89.5 from the front casting was a half degree rolled forward or a half rolled down.

Honestly, it's a stacking of variables. I went from 6.5* back up to about 5.5* and really didn't notice any change in the way it steered. If you are over the knuckle steering with 2.5T tierod and draglink, it may be more noticeable.

Yeah, all the replacement CVs are basically factory. Rumor has it you can bolt a JK front shaft and flange on a JL or JT, but I don't have one laying around to confirm.

Now if someone would just make a high angle CV or rzeppa we could retrofit..

Yeah, I have a replacement CV joint for the stock shaft sitting in the garage. If I get 40k out of each joint, and don't have to buy a new shaft, leaves me more money for other things that would improve it's performance. I still think the 1310 aftermarket shafts are probably the smart answer...

You can get away with the stock front shaft for a while. I'm running the same lift on 37s and wheeled it and street driven it for 35,000 miles with no issues. I'm getting close to needing a new CV at the transfer case for the front, but so far it has only deformed the ring and slung a tiny bit...