Learn Me Please. Triangulated 4 links.

[professorkx]

I’ve installed the RK 4-link on a gladiator, and we used the u-bolts AND I welded it to the tubes. a week after install, we took the gladiator on the Rubicon and it performed flawlessly. I also installed the RK on my JK (not a 4 link), and it handled every Trail I put it on.

I had intended to install the RK on my gladiator, but not sure I will need it since I am not planning on doing a ton of serious rock crawling, so just went with the AEV 2.5 lift. I can always switch to RK in the future…

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[JT1]

I've had the RK 4 link for over 3 years with ZERO issues or complaints. I would say there are all pros and no cons to the setup. I'm bolted and welded on 37's.

That's awesome! Thanks

 

[gearhead22]

I’ve installed the RK 4-link on a gladiator, and we used the u-bolts AND I welded it to the tubes. a week after install, we took the gladiator on the Rubicon and it performed flawlessly. I also installed the RK on my JK (not a 4 link), and it handled every Trail I put it on.

I had intended to install the RK on my gladiator, but not sure I will need it since I am not planning on doing a ton of serious rock crawling, so just went with the AEV 2.5 lift. I can always switch to RK in the future…

Does the axle need to be removed to install? I assume not, I’m sure it’s easier though.

 

[JTGuy]

My RK gets installed by Shift here in So Cal on the 16th. I would do it myself but just too lazy. I have herd nothing but good about the 4 link. I am only lifted about 2 inches with the geo-brackets in front so this should finish it. The brackets made a huge difference in the ride and I hope the 4 link makes the rear better. I want to get rid of that track bar. Shift is going to weld the bracket on. I will report on the results.

 

[Deleted member 57233]

Does the axle need to be removed to install? I assume not, I’m sure it’s easier though.

There is a ton of room to work back there with the axle at full droop and the spare removed.

 

[Zachanadandy]

No experience with the rustys, but it looks like the arms are way too short just like the stock setup. The rock crawler arms are something like 23" if I remember right vs the 15" stock uppers. The massive difference in upper and lower arm length is why the JT has so much pinion dive stock. I've had the RK kit installed for about 25k miles and it's been great. Virtually eliminated the head toss. The rear feels far more planted under hard acceleration in loose terrain too. I also run drop brackets and the 4 link made an even bigger difference in ride. For the 1st 10k miles I was still on the stock Mojave springs with AEV 2" spacers and stock Mojave shocks. Switched to metalcloak 3.5" springs at that point. Still running the stock shocks. The improved suspension geometry works regardless of springs in my experience.

 

[JTGuy]

Well, add the 4 link to my signature. No more track bar. No more head toss. It's a great mod.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Any updates on these kits? Mostly looking to hear if there were any failures or issues that came up in the long term. this is a year or so down the road for me but I’d still like to have all my ducks in a row.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Any updates on these kits? Mostly looking to hear if there were any failures or issues that came up in the long term. this is a year or so down the road for me but I’d still like to have all my ducks in a row.

Mines been wheeled and worked hard for 20k miles so far. 1,800lbs of pavers in the bed 100 miles including 20 miles of washboard dirt roads. 8400lb trailer 600 miles including the 20 miles of dirt. Freeway speeds in the dirt regularly. Not so much as a loose jamb nut.

 

[JTGuy]

Mine is perfect. Don't even know it's there.

 

[slodsm]

I think I’m going to go for the RK kit in the near future. I’ll have to cut my artec truss off and weld the RK on but that’s not a huge deal.
The only thing that makes me sketchy on it is cutting off my factory mounts.
There is no going back at that point .

 

[JTGuy]

With the RK kit you leave the factory CA mounts on.

 

[Stormtroopin]

I think I’m going to go for the RK kit in the near future. I’ll have to cut my artec truss off and weld the RK on but that’s not a huge deal.
The only thing that makes me sketchy on it is cutting off my factory mounts.
There is no going back at that point .

I don’t believe you have to remove any

With the RK kit you leave the factory CA mounts on.

Yeup, I just placed an order for 1 through northridge after discussing the kit with a sales rep. I have been waiting on the synergy kit because I love there products by its months away, was told late spring at the earliest.

 

[slodsm]

I don’t believe you have to remove any

Really? I was thinking you had to cut the factory upper mounts off for some reason. I’ll have to look now. I’d love to do this. My front end is completely finished and I’m happy with how it works so on to the back now.

 

[JTGuy]

Look at the RK instructions on line and U tube. You get rid of the rear track bar. The RK replacement upper CA's are solid. I had Shift Auto do mine and Welded the bracket to the rear diff.

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