Long Arm-Mid Arm VS Long Arm-Triangulated 4 Link

[Escape.idiocracy]

I don't think the wheelbase has any effect on hitting the front drop brackets personally. I think it's tire placement more than anything. At that same point a long arm will likely be every bit as low. Now granted it will be an angled arm and will slide on obstacles far better than the drop brackets but I don't think you'll gain as much clearance as you think. The arm being longer and flatter makes for great ride and flex, but it still attaches just above frame height way back at the cross member and runs at an angle down to the axle. Mid arms will always have more ground clearance than long arms for that reason.

This isn’t true, and I don’t mean to call you out in a negative way…. Most long arm kits move the brackets to the sides of the frame and or into the crossmember. The added length on the control arms are usually bent in a manner that the “drop down” or hang up is moved closer to the axle…. The control arms are very acute by the frame/mounts adding 2-3” of clearance.


^^^ JL…. But gives a good view to what I am trying to describe.

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[Dickster]

I'm on the 4.5" Adventure X Pro kit from RK, which is Mid-Arm front, 4 link rear. Initial impressions so far is it's super stable and flexes really well.
Plan on going Long Arm fronts whenever I make another change, which is basically the Silverback kit, so that would be my recommendation out of the options you listed.
The 4 link rear is just really smooth on the trails and road and my gladiator feels firmly planted when on and off road.
Few pics playing on Rocky Road at SMORR and some other trails -

Check out that rear droop...

Wish I had a picture or video of me coming through rocker knocker above from the bed side, in the above photo you can see the rear is still fairly level even though I'm really flexy in front.

Some shots from posing it on the flex ramp when the lift was installed -

For reference, the flex ramp I was on 37s, SMORR pics I was on 40s.

Totally think you will love the silverback kit if you go that route.

I have the same lift it's nice. I've added Fox 2.5s but went with 4-6in lift length shocks gained some down travel. Doing the rock jock rear sway bar let the rear free up more and had to extend abs sensor lines and add spring retention brackets.

Next up bump stops and changing out to max out till rubbing.

I might do the long arm kit eventually but haven't felt the need for much more flex and Is pretty smooth.

 

[Zachanadandy]

This isn’t true, and I don’t mean to call you out in a negative way…. Most long arm kits move the brackets to the sides of the frame and or into the crossmember. The added length on the control arms are usually bent in a manner that the “drop down” or hang up is moved closer to the axle…. The control arms are very acute by the frame/mounts adding 2-3” of clearance.


^^^ JL…. But gives a good view to what I am trying to describe.

Adding 2-3" of clearance 10" behind the mount puts the front arm...exactly where mine sits at the stock location with drop brackets. Those front arms aren't bent for clearance at all. It's a simple triangle. The axle side isn't moved, the frame side is moved about 3x further rearward than it moves up. Short of taking measurements with both installed on the same vehicle with the same springs and tires it would be hard to say for certain, but on my XJ I installed the long arms before I cut off the factory brackets and they cleared just fine at ride height and street driving, because they hang well below the bracket. You only have to remove the bracket for compression travel. The stock arm sits about where the blue arrow is, and yes it's drooped out in this picture. But drooped or that arm is a good 4" lower than where the stock arms mount into the drop brackets.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I going to disagree with this. Have you ever gone over a rock, landed on your frame and then had to back up to place your rig in a different spot for the next obstacle? That has happened to me more than once now and what has stopped me from being able to back up enough to reposition a tire is the drop bracket/LCA. I would still hit a long arm control arm but it would at least allow me to slide up instead of ramming in to a 90 degree corner.

I have all 8 MC mid arms. I could just get rid of the brackets, but I like way my rig rides on the road and I don't want to compromise that as much as possible. I think long arms will provide almost as good of geometry as brackets while providing better ground clearance.

The added ability to slide up the arm is definitely a thing, but I try to do most of my wheeling in the forward direction. I have run long arms on other rigs, and the fact is you lose ground clearance compared to mid arms by quite a bit. Mid arms with drop brackets I'd bet are equal to a long arm so yes the long arm will slide better. As I said, we have a JLUR for rocks so landing on the frame and having to back up has happened all of once and the drop brackets weren't an issue. A lot less wheel base and frame to maneuver around.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I have the same lift it's nice. I've added Fox 2.5s but went with 4-6in lift length shocks gained some down travel. Doing the rock jock rear sway bar let the rear free up more and had to extend abs sensor lines and add spring retention brackets.

Next up bump stops and changing out to max out till rubbing.

I might do the long arm kit eventually but haven't felt the need for much more flex and Is pretty smooth.

How do you even change/rotate tires on this??!!
(Yes I know it’s from ‘24. I’m doing my research)

 

[Dickster]

How do you even change/rotate tires on this??!!
(Yes I know it’s from ‘24. I’m doing my research)

Well I have 40s and bead locks now. 143lbs per wheel and tires.... most time I go to discount tires lmao. Best way in the driveway is lift the axle till the tire is 1/2in off the ground and use a pinch bar to pick it up into plave.

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