If you aren’t covered by the TSB, go get the mopar 2” lift or Clayton’s and be done with it.
Sucks Jeep is giving a lot of people fhe run around. :/
Splitting hairs on fhe “not really” .
Most lump the term “axle” to be the whole assembly.
where does one draw the line on saying an axle is beefier/stronger? Include the various installed “pieces/parts” or separate it out to individual components?
Limiting it to spline count? Pinion/ring gear...
Incorrect. My Rubi’s axles are beefier.
My knuckles are actual steel. (Diesel Rubi)
Basic sport and I think gasser Rubi’s are aluminum knuckles.
Mojave and max tow might also get the steel knuckles, but not 100% sure
I’m impressed with how balanced the weight is front to rear.I r always thought my JT handled very well for a solid axle vehicle. I think the distribution is why.
For winch plates, I went with warn. It’s a known commodity that works.
It’s install was easy and precise.
It might be a few bucks more than someone else? But zero headaches are worth a few bucks.
Clayton has been around for a long time. 20 years or so. He started in his garage and built a nice business.
How? Toughest products that are over-built and extraordinary customer service.
If I go higher/want more, I’ll goClayton, hands down.
I’m on mopar right now, serves my needs, but will...
If you use your aux switches, and the Jeeps pcm/bcm or whatever takes a dump, the aux switches don’t work, how do you activate your winch? (Assuming you had wired it to trigger that way)?
I’ve always gone direct to battery.
I think it’s better to KISS with your wench.
What ever solenoid, make sure it can handle the amps. A winch can pull in excess of 450amps.
Ground should go directly to the battery. It is a LOT of juice.
Folks have had good luck with the badlands. Their solenoids and fuse/bus terminals can melt.
Personally, I’d recommend you save up and...