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The Rubicon/Mojaves fenders absolutely sit higher and have more clearance around the wheels than the max tow fenders. The max tow ones are far more similar to the lower trims, they just have the nicer two bulb halogen fender light (like the overland) and the lip for the wide track axle pushing...

Yes, all fenders are interchangeable with all trims from what I understand, it's just the support brackets inside the fenders that are different on the Mojave/Rubicon that raise the fenders up a bit on those fenders (ie the metal mounting tabs on the truck and the spots where the white fender...

Max tow requires the automatic trans.

This isn't something that can be easily inspected, it's all hidden behind seats and panels that would need to be replaced. And without seeing the retractors and the multiple chew lines on the belt, they wouldn't have really been able to guess rats either. I'm more surprised your mechanic...

By who and why? Isn't it just a crate box with a lift kit in it that anyone can purchase?

Keep in mind the MSRP is insanely high to begin with. BUT, $35k is a decent price for a max tow sport with dual doors. For the locker swap, you'll just pull out the anti spin diff, shouldn't cause any issues. After lockers and a mild lift/bigger tires it'll be a fun/cheapish trail rig. Not...

Just checked mine and no such fraying at all.

I truly think this damage happened down near the retractors themselves, and there's probably something either on the retractor or nearby on a vehicle panel that is wearing through the belt. With the fray lines happening at your ~6" intervals, it tracks that something rubbed (or chewed, ie a...

Did you ask your mechanic who replaced them to look around behind the paneling for any interferences? Maybe the less frayed areas are where something rubbed while your car seats were strapped in.

Note that by adding a Tazer, you can overcome the factory software locker limiters.

My thoughts: Warranty - 5 yr/60k miles powertrain is worth a good amount IMO, so the newer the better (and make sure it wasn't modified if this matters (ie gear change, major parts swaps, engine "mods", etc). Also try to get maintenance history on anything used. Even if the previous owner did...

If you ever want to tag a certain user, put an "@" symbol in front of the name and it'll link to them. @TheOpa

Instead of peeling the brown paper at the edge, take a sharp knife (new utility blade) and cut the brown strip a few inches in from the end avoiding cutting through the tape itself as much as possible, then peel up from there. I've found this to work well since the tape has a harder time peeling...

Is it possible to swap out some of the buttons on it? I don't have adaptive cruise, so curious if I could take my blank buttons off my wheel and transplant them over to the new one.

I'd personally skip the hoop lights (which are easy to steal) and just upgrade your OE fogs to something way better than stock. Diode dynamic SS3 Pros are what I went with, and give me all the off-road/ditch lighting I could want. If the hoop tabs bother you, cleanly cut em off with a tool...

I also went from halogen bulb, to Beamtech LED bulbs (which work well), to DD Elites (non-max) and have been very happy with the Elites so far. Definitely some install headaches with them, but was worth the cost and effort. I think I got mine for around $650 from Northridge 4x4 when they were...

Our experiences were very similar. I really wish DD would have just been honest in their instructions about how much of a PITA these are to properly install and aim, at least then you're not surprised by it when your 30 minute install turns into a 4 hour install.

Reminds me of Shawshank; we'll have to start calling you Mr Chorky, if you please.

After seeing you have a bumper with a large welded on hoop and recovery hooks, I wonder if that's the reason for removal. I'd bet standard warranty work doesn't require the factory bumper and winch to come off, but since yours may block access of techs on the front of the vehicle, they may be...

It might be factory procedure to pull the grill and bumper for better worker access during engine teardown.