Don't get all emotional on us now, all this pricing is mostly based on marketing and/or supply and demand. In my tri state area in the Rockies, for the last decade, nothing has even come close to holding its value like a Jeep Wrangler or Gladiator. For the first couple years of production...
You can always decide on which one you can get the deeper discounts on. You can get a '24 Willy's with bed liner and hard top, buy some really nice suspension components(that would let you choose your own ride quality) for a 3" front, 1" rear lift, pick out your own wheels and tires, and still...
I could just copy and paste my previous post here, and it would be just as true and relevant as it was to the last ridiculous post you made. Trying to sound smart won't win you any points with me, and it certainly won't make my comments untrue.
So now we're making decisions off what someone thinks the number of failures might be? We don't know for sure if it only two, so we'll just assume there's a frame problem, lol? I have no hate for anything, in my opinion, putting 7k worth of shocks on a truck with solid axles and 8" of wheel...
Okay, so that's two out of how many manufactured? Were his axles stock? You feel a Mojave chassis would have prevented either of those failures? There's hundreds of videos of axles breaking. If the OP is wanting to save some money, get the Willy's, if money doesn't matter, get a Rubicon. Putting...
You could do 3" lift coils/shocks in front with extended LCA's and 1" spacers/+1" shocks rear, narrow 35's and stock offset wheels with a quality snorkel kit. If that can't do what you need, sounds like you need a dinghy.
I went with narrow 35's, and built a front suspension to level the truck on a '23 JTR. Buy your wheels and tires, mount them, then lift the front of the truck with a floor jack and decide what height looks best to you. If it's a low lift, order the plus length springs and shocks you need, along...
"I think this guy just hates trucks/jeeps maybe?" this is satire not a denial of responsibility. I fully assume and understand the point of covered lights and plate.
No...........He was just a dick.
Thanks, yeah I knew it needed a jumper being as N1 is powering electronics. I came across a premade jumper with a fusible link, but N3 is already fused, so I figured it wasn't necessary.
If I'm looking at the diagram correctly, a person could delete aux battery, N1 to aux pos. cable, aux pos. to PCR cable, PCR, PCR to N3 cable, and aux ground cable?