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I have had a have '12 JK, '14JKU and '20JT. Only issues have been 1 leaking axle seal on the '14JKU and the heated steering wheel stopped working on the JT. Over 150k miles between the three. Jeeps have been more reliable than my '20 Honda CRV and my '10 Toyota Tundra. All 5 vehicles have been...

I purchased mine from Amazon, it seemed fine, it was not OEM but appeared identical.

Used the instructions today, worked great. 5 very dark quarts came out and about 5.5 went back in, took a while to get up to 86 degrees. My gasket was perfect and i was able to reuse it, lots of sludge on the magnets, 73.3k miles first time performing the change. Thanks again for great...

I have had a Rugged Liner drop in for close to 6 years and 75k miles, fits very snug, had a drop in in my Tundra for 10 years, no problems with either. Provides the best protection from dents and gouges, also have a soft roll up tonneau cover which works great, can roll it up against the cab...

Great job on the instructions. I like the idea of using the giant syringe to remove the fluid, I have the same one. I have watched a few videos and some have mentioned having to loosen the exhaust to get the pan out, is that not an issue?

I don't recall what I have mine set to size wise, I am using an AEV Procal, I set it by trial an error using a GPS speedo on my phone. I believe it is a little smaller than the calculated size. I get around 17mpg in the winter and 19mpg in the summer, mostly traffic going in and out of the...

Dead pedal and bed cover.

OP, when you changed it did you just put in the same amount you took out or another method? I have read a number of threads where people often put in more than came out. Thanks.

My Gladiator has 4.10s with 35" tires, I tow several 3k lb boats during the summer in fairy hilly areas, Mass and Maine, the Jeep does fine, but not sure I would want to tow anything much heavier. My previous truck was a Tundra which towed much better than the Gladiator. The one area the...

I changed out the suspension on my max tow for Rubicon stuff, info is here https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/leveling-my-sport-s-max-tow.38426/ I have over 70k on the Jeep still going great with this setup

Adding another update, now have 50k on the tires, measured the tread depth still at an even 8/32nds on all four. Tires still ride great, they are a little slipper when wet but not really an issue. Rotate them every 5k and run them at around 36psi.

Dead pedal, makes a huge difference in driving comfort for me.

You need the harness and the column, the column part number is 68599296aa the harness part number is 68400792ab. You will need both as the column has the connector for the wiring for the heat.

It is a pretty straight forward remove and replace, you can easily determine if it is the wiring like mine, just disconnect the power and remove the air bag.

If you click on my profile you can find the thread, I think the wiring and connector are probably undersize and that is why they burned, it definitely could happen again IMO.

The steering wheel harness and the steering wheel control module, the connectors in both were damaged by being burnt, replacement was pretty straight forward cost in parts was around $400, I created a separate thread on it.

Just a cheap Harbor Freight air gun, without the core you can put in more air faster to reseat the tire bead.

Still have my '20, just under 60k miles, still has original batteries. Only problem has been the heated steering wheel stopped working which I just around to fixing.

Update on my heated steering wheel issue. I replaced the steering column control module/clock spring and steering wheel harness today, wasn't too bad took a couple hours. Everything was pretty straightforward, the steering wheel harness has to be routed a certain way. Tested it out and the heat...

Just under 60k miles, only issue is the heated steering stopped working, turns out it is the clock spring, ordered one this week, will do the repair next week.