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I first found Expedition One as I'm looking for a swing out rear bumper with some serious protection. But the Expedition One means you have to retain the OEM hitch bar, which as everyone knows, is one of the Achilles heels off-roading with the JT. So this JCR definitely fits the bill.

I found a thread on another Jeep forum stating quite a bit of people with the Wrangler and the EcoDiesel having oil leaks from timing cover seal and oil cooler housing seal. I take it since the last vote check box isn't checked, no one has had any oil leaks?

I've decided on the RLD over the RSI. Crazy that I got the RLD cheaper than the RSI, with the RLD being one piece welded and much stronger than the RSI which has flimsy pieces clipped together.

Too bad no one is making a cap with the best of both the Leer and the ARE. The Leer back side and side windows and the ARE front of the cap would be perfect.

What do you guys think of the temperature inside in the sun? I've been reading on Tacoma forums, people complaining how hot the metal cap makes it inside.

Has anyone also considered the Leer? Pro's vs Con's? I'm leaning towards ordering the ARE CX Evolve soon, paint matched. I decided I'm definitely going fiberglass as A: I will be camping inside and will also have pets inside; fiberglass radiating heat to the interior a lot less than the metal...

Interesting design, but ya it doesn't fit the Gladiator very well. Not too sure why you'd want doors like that, as having a tailgate as a work surface is very useful.

Almost to 100 voters!

Biodiesel actually has more lubrication properties than ULSD. https://www.fleetequipmentmag.com/how-biodiesel-solve-fleet-lubricity-problems/#:~:text=Biodiesel has great lubricity characteristics,help add even more lubrication. B5 is fine, but B20 isn't that recommended not because it's "dry"...

Would probably be low single digit sales percentages. Hence not going to happen.

Whoa; slow down here. No one is saying that you are wrong for not using fuel additives. It's only a data point to see if it helps, nor an end-all-be-all fix. And if a lack of ULSD lubricity is a root cause. Of course in a perfect world a perfect pump for our fuel should have been used. But as...

Curious, where did you see that 8% reference?

Well there is a water sensor at the bottom of the fuel filter housing that is supposed to warn you, but some feel that is too late and/or not 100% reliable. Even the owners manual says if that water light comes on, IMMEDIATELY pull over and drain it.

Oh sweet thanks for posting this. I'm going to get that Clayton too and run an aired down 38" Ridge Grappler under there.

Ok man thanks. That makes it even more painful.

I have a JTRD on order in Sarge Green that is fully loaded. I wonder if it's going to take a loooong time to get mine.

Oh cool, a his/hers?

Great data guys, I think if we get over 100 owner responses we can start to get into the ball-park of what the reality is.

Sorry to hear that. Do you have any other details? Any sketchy diesel pump fuel-ups? Did you ever check or drain water out of the fuel filter/separator? Just curious, as maybe if we see a trend we can narrow down what the largest issue is that kills CP4's.

Did you have any issue in that cold of weather with the Diesel not getting up to temperature? Did you consider a radiator soft cover?