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Hi @DC3 I'm close to having an appointment with the dealer to pull the cab and swap my turbo to address the P00AF issue and just found this thread. I would certainly rather pay out-of-pocket to replace the turbo actuator myself than go through a cab-off with the dealer to replace the entire...

Yup, I'm going to disconnect all my electrical additions myself. As for the body mount bolts, I already busted them loose when I installed my Ace rock sliders, so now that the factory locktite is broken, they shouldn't have any problem with those body mount bolts.

Well this is the standard shop rate for the service department at my local Future CDJR dealership. It's not a special rate for trucks or EcoDiesels. Apparently there are enough customers willing to pay that labor rate.

Yeah, I was flabbergasted when I saw that, too. I might feel differently about it if I knew their technicians were being paid a substantial portion of that amount.

Welp, I managed to bring my Jeep to the dealership, and they confirmed the P00AF. They need me to drive it and get it to throw the code again for confirmation. The warrantied turbo installation is going to require cab-off so I need to disconnect all of my body-to-frame wiring (winch, lights...

I've been in contact with him for a while. He's building this out primarily for Ram EcoDiesels and hasn't found anybody with a Wrangler/Gladiator EcoDiesel near him who can let him check out their trucks to develop a Jeep-specific kit. That means I'm on my own for figuring everything out...

There's a new option about to be released per some posts in the EcoDiesel Page for the Differently Abled and Intellectually Challenged on Facebook. Again, not cheap, but better than the Insane Diesel setup. Sorry FB doesn't let me link directly to the specific posts.

Yup. That's my next project for my Jeep. I'm trying to figure out where there's space to mount the Amsoil bypass filter system.

The air will flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area, wherever that may be. Obviously the open bottom of the engine bay is where the majority of air ramming through the radiator will wind up exhausting, but opening up passages (vents, cowl line) to the low pressure area above the...

Even if these scoops managed to force air into the engine compartment, they would be counter-productive. The vast majority of the engine's cooling comes from airflow through the grille-mounted heat exchangers (radiators). To promote airflow through the grille, you need to reduce air pressure...

I know there's a lot of heat exchanger activity going on at the front of the Jeep, but I'm willing to consider going this route since my Jeep has absolutely no issues keeping the water and transmission temps under control. I'm curious if anyone has actually tried fitting an oil cooler up front...

Instead of mounting a cooler underneath the bumper in such a vulnerable location, has anyone looked into the possibility of fitment of a cooler behind the grille and ahead of the OEM coolers? There appears to be room enough for a narrow auxiliary oil cooler there where it won't get smashed on...

I've never had a single issue with my trans temp. The engine temp will rise and fall a bit, but it never gets hot enough to be a problem. My problem is the dang oil temp. I need to find an oil cooling solution that will allow me to tow up hills in the summer, or else I'm going to have to...

Correct. The ductile iron is cast into shape.

Not to mention the fact that with a LSD, the Jeep's "Brake Lock Diff" traction control is made even more effective than on an axle with an open differential.

No Jeeps have steel knuckles. The Mojaves and EcoDiesels have ductile iron knuckles.

As far as I'm concerned, every Jeep differential that doesn't have a locker should come with a Torsen limited-slip.

So when the ignition is off and the Jeep is parked, the two batteries remain connected as one?

I still don't understand why manufacturers abandoned the tried-and-true and far superior manual locking hubs. Is it because customers are too stupid or lazy to be bothered to get out and lock the hubs before hitting the dirt? Everything has to have a stupid push-button or automatic operation...

Does this throw a check engine light code on Jeeps with OEM engine tunes?