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Diesel cooling options and ideas

rubicon4wheeler

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Just disconnect the elect stuff and pray they don't snap off the body mount bolts.
Yup, I'm going to disconnect all my electrical additions myself. As for the body mount bolts, I already busted them loose when I installed my Ace rock sliders, so now that the factory locktite is broken, they shouldn't have any problem with those body mount bolts.
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GladiatorPilot23

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You now I have a 2 stage Snow Performance Water/Meth kit with the gauge that will go into the lower banks pod. Upper will keep the Idash. I have not installed it yet along with other items sitting for months due to hard to get free time.

I would expect some good cooling benefits. It's got the smaller nozzles. It will thread into the AFe charge pipes ports. One before the intercooler to clean and pull heat out from it then one larger 2nd stage after to continue cooling under heavier load. I have a 3 stage deionizer in my garage for the water that I use to wash my car. I want no ASH and this will be the best way over distilled. It has a PPM gauge so my water comes out 0 PPM. I will use the windshield washer reservoir to keep it close and simple. It will make more power from the cooling but I want it more for keeping the intake minty fresh and clean. I also like to lower the NOx. The Meth will also help in more complete combustion as well. Lower soot and a little more MPG. Overall though it will cool things down A LOT from what I see by other users postings on big rigs and 1 ton trucks.

I think this is the best way to go along with upgraded radiator and trans cooler.
 
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Madtom

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Just completed a trip from CA to PA and back.

Truck had about 1500LB of payload and was towing a 6,200LB airstream with about 750LB of tongue weight.

Drove the majority of the way at around 75.

The climb from Needles to Flagstaff was limited to about 55mph on the steepest grades and my engine coolant reached a max of 242 degrees — but I never experienced a hard derate event in the entire 6,400 mile round trip..

Temps would climb on grades and quickly recover as soon as the crest was reached.



It would be around $550.00 if seven can commit.

This would be the skid plate housing fully welded and assembled, sandblasted, and powder coated in lightly textured black.

You would need to byo cooler core, hoses, hardware, etc.
Primer,

Count me in if you get enough to do this I will definitely pony up $550........ if it doesn't happen before Christmas I'm probably gonna bite the bullet and have one fabbed up out of 304SS. Will definitely cost me more than 550.
 

3VOLVE

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There may also be a new skid plate available soon for the new cooler that will work with the electric sway bar and steel bumpers — first prototypes are expected to be ready soon.

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you’ve provided some great information here Sean (@Primer Gray). Any chance you have a parts list, looks, and/or where you got the parts? Thanks in advance!

joe
 

Primer Gray

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Granitelvr

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Found this thread after my brother sent me a link with the Mishimoto radiator. Good information in here. Thank you to everyone. I have almost 100k on my JTRD. Probably 20k towing extreme weight in mountains. By extreme I mean 13-20k lbs. anytime I am towing. Just wanted to pass on some kernels of understanding I have garnered from real world towing in the most extreme conditions.
1: The profile of what you are towing is going to make or break you. I tow a dump trailer. Guys towing campers with bigger wind facement will exponentially lower their weight towing due to aerodynamic drag.
2: Outside air temp. Anything over 70 degrees and variables come into play.
Tricks and tips for air temp over 70.
1. Fuel request/speed. If you see your coolant tempt begin to spike. Lay off the fuel pedal. It took me awhile to find out I could tow up to 12k in over 100 degree heat if I just let the truck pull at the speed it wanted to be at spinning at about 3k RPMs in the right gear. I don’t tow anymore weight in over 70 degrees.
2: Proper tire inflation: Changing to a LT load E tire and inflating to 70psi + was a game changer for speed/ and stability. Lower tire psi equals more resistance which equals more work
3: Correct hitch height/airbags. Moving to a drop hitch and airbags has increased my speed and lessened my trailer resistance while towing thereby lessened my temps.
Hopes this helps some peeps.
 

caryt

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Well I for one never want to see you around when your pulling way over weight... your putting yourself and others at risk.
 
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JTdiRtyD

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Found this thread after my brother sent me a link with the Mishimoto radiator. Good information in here. Thank you to everyone. I have almost 100k on my JTRD. Probably 20k towing extreme weight in mountains. By extreme I mean 13-20k lbs. anytime I am towing. Just wanted to pass on some kernels of understanding I have garnered from real world towing in the most extreme conditions.
1: The profile of what you are towing is going to make or break you. I tow a dump trailer. Guys towing campers with bigger wind facement will exponentially lower their weight towing due to aerodynamic drag.
2: Outside air temp. Anything over 70 degrees and variables come into play.
Tricks and tips for air temp over 70.
1. Fuel request/speed. If you see your coolant tempt begin to spike. Lay off the fuel pedal. It took me awhile to find out I could tow up to 12k in over 100 degree heat if I just let the truck pull at the speed it wanted to be at spinning at about 3k RPMs in the right gear. I don’t tow anymore weight in over 70 degrees.
2: Proper tire inflation: Changing to a LT load E tire and inflating to 70psi + was a game changer for speed/ and stability. Lower tire psi equals more resistance which equals more work
3: Correct hitch height/airbags. Moving to a drop hitch and airbags has increased my speed and lessened my trailer resistance while towing thereby lessened my temps.
Hopes this helps some peeps.
Why are you towing 13-20k lbs with a Gladi?
 

@californiajeeping

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I have some miles on the new csf radiator trans cooler and low temp thermostat.

the limiting factor is airflow through the coolant stack which can be overcome by using the taxers fan feature even on the highway.

I have everything else done to this Jeep no insulation, no inner fenders, on and on trying to get my uphill temps under control with 40s in hot weather.

I will say the highest oil temps I see now in cool winter weather are 230ish with the fan off. This is trying to spike temps.

if you turn the fan on with a tazer the oil temps drop down to 200-220 oil.

Waiting for 100 degree weather to see but in race mode I could mat it and peak 255 oil temps on a mountain pass but I don’t believe any further coolings neccesary.

This is idling for 20 minutes after a one hour highway drive everything sits at 190 now. Stock it would creep up to 220+ and run the fan.

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_7489
Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_7488
 

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Vtur

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At what oil temp does everyone be derating? I've seen mine highest at 269 and no derate, but i wasn't towing though.
 

biodiesel

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At what oil temp does everyone be derating? I've seen mine highest at 269 and no derate, but i wasn't towing though.
I'm not sure about the 3rd gen EcoDiesel, but the 2nd gen EcoDiesel gives a warning a little before the derate. The actual derate occurs at 245*F Coolant and/or 270*F Oil.
 

Rusty PW

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At what oil temp does everyone be derating? I've seen mine highest at 269 and no derate, but i wasn't towing though.
I've gone over both Vail pass and Eisenhower pass on a 100+ degree day at 70 mph. Never derated. Oil temp was 248, and water was 252 from what I can remember.
 

CrazyCooter

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I've gone over both Vail pass and Eisenhower pass on a 100+ degree day at 70 mph. Never derated. Oil temp was 248, and water was 252 from what I can remember.
Coolant at 248 and you on the side of the road 5mph with the dash flashing!
 

Rusty PW

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Coolant at 248 and you on the side of the road 5mph with the dash flashing!
Water was around 252. I've never seen anything over 260 for either one.
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