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I decided to try toe out as opposed to the toe in I’ve been running. I ended up with 3/32” toe out as opposed to the 1/16” toe in I had been running. I noticed a few things pretty quickly. There’s a road I travel daily that has a decent crown to it. Prior, to go straight down the road, it...

I decided to try toe out as opposed to the toe in I’ve been running. I ended up with 3/32” toe out as opposed to the 1/16” toe in I had been running. I noticed a few things pretty quickly. There’s a road I travel daily that has a decent crown to it. Prior, to go straight down the road, it...

Definitely at a loss. Not sure if they still aren’t balanced right or if it’s something else. Just not sure what else it could be?

Also the road force numbers are as follows RF started at 29 they got it to 11 LF 18 RR 19 LR 18 Not sure what this shake is from… happens are 52-57. Physically moved the wheel back and forth

After putting a few more miles on since the rebalance it definitely still has a shake around 52-55. Not nearly as bad but it’s still there enough to move the wheel back and forth. It didn’t do it last night on my way home which is weird.

I may try that just for the hell of it

Did you try toe in? What differences have you noticed?

Looking back on an old thread here. Not sure if this was mentioned in any other posts but what he’s showing isn’t true toe out. It’s “out” when compared to the recommended toe in setting from factory because it’s less positive and closer to zero. But don’t be fooled, it’s still considered toe in...

Technically yes but no it wasn’t on the ground. I had the axle on jack stands while everything was torqued and the load of the truck resting on the suspension.

I’ve thought about going toe out to try. I did order the 9/16 bolts. They just showed up so will be installing them.

Tires have been rebalanced. Seems better, will report back when I can get some more drive time.

Thanks for the info! Currently I’m running 17x9 -12 wheels and 37’s. They’ve been on there since I bought it, as well as the balancing beads. My thought was since the beads move around that tire shake could change at different speeds as opposed to traditional weights where it tends to happen at...

That is the remaining piece. We will see Thursday when they get taken off, and rebalanced with actual weights. If that doesn’t fix it idk what to do

I wish I had other wheels to try just to rule it out but I don’t. I didn’t really notice a difference per se. It has gotten worse, which is weird since all normal death wobble contributing parts have been replaced

A local shop handles tires of all sizes regularly. I have an APPT for Thursday so we will see if the balance beads were the culprit. I’ll have them removed and weights installed. You can tell weights were on these wheels at some point. Not sure if it was with these tires or different ones but if...

I didn’t think much of it until now as I’m chasing down a shake/wobble while driving. I noticed with the new ball joints installed, and just the knuckle connected to the ball joints (no axle shaft, wheel bearing etc), the knuckle has no resistance when moving side to side. It just rotates side...

I bought my gladiator a little over a month ago. It came with a spacer lift and 37’s. Drove it 3 hours home with no issues. Decided I wanted to replace the factory suspension and spacer with a full suspension kit. I installed a Metalcloak 3.5” game changer lift. For about 2 weeks after the lift...

I thought about trying it. Some like 5,6 or even 7 degrees or more. Just wondered why I couldn’t get anymore out of it if I wanted to. No photos but yes they’re adjustable. I also thought about trying some control arm drop brackets. Which I believe all of them add caster to some extent.

Full disclosure this is from when I installed my 3.5 MC GC lift a few weeks ago but it’s something I’ve been questioning since. when I was going to set my caster I left the jeep on the ground with the tires on, placed a jack under the pinion, disconnected the 2 UCA’s at the axle, set the caster...

I assume it’s just a characteristic of the solid front axle with track bars. On a traditional ifs set each wheel can move independently up front, on a solid axle when one side cycles the other also moves some as they’re attached via the axle.