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Too mainstream for ya huh? I wave (when I remember) because it's nice to be friendly and I imagine it makes most people feel good.

https://www.coyoteents.com/ From what I understand, these are coming from the same gentlemen who created the staun deflators and it is an improved design. I emailed him back in September and he said he was still testing them and didn't have a solid ETA yet. You can sign up for email updates on...

If you don't mind waiting, the new coyote deflator design will probably be the best one available when it gets released. I use an arb deflator that unscrews the valve stem for faster airing down, but want to switch to the preset screw-on type when the coyote comes out. I air down my trailer too...

I've had a couple Smittybilts and they have worked great for me. Never been brave enough to try out a harbor freight winch, but they seem to be pretty popular on wreckers and car haulers. You will probably be fine with either option if you install it properly and look after it.

Does anyone use the navigation in motion feature of their tazer? Enabling it on mine doesn't change the behavior of Google maps at all.

The Metalcloak sector shaft brace doesn't look like a very solid design to me and it appears to use a dry bushing, which I don't want. You just can't have it all I guess

The steersmarts is the other brace I'm looking at because it also takes care of the sector shaft. I like the sealed bearing design on that versus the bushing that companies like synergy use.

@Discount Tire

You can make any winch wireless for $18 with one of these: https://a.co/d/ag2HMFU I have my winch solenoid mounted under the hood and this remote works fine from both inside & outside the truck.

I'm looking to beef up the track bar mount on my truck and saw that Metalcloak is offering a bracket now that looks very strong. Anyone try it out yet?

Are you going to run these year-round? You might want to add the Kenda klever to your list as they are a narrow tire with siping and are studable.

Do you happen to have a lsd in your rear axle?

They named their undercoating "hardwax" so I'm guessing it dries to a hard finish. I've never used the stuff so maybe it's great, I would just worry that anywhere it lifts off the metal will trap moisture.

8.5" is the recommended wheel width for their 35x10.50 per Kenda, but you need to check the backspacing too

Personally, I don't want any undercoating that dries to a hard finish because it can trap moisture under it and cause rust instead of preventing it. I use woolwax, which is a very thick oil-based coating. The downside to products like woolwax is that they need to be touched up every year since...

The refresh rate of a phone's position is typically 1hz, as in once per second. You can buy a GPS module such as the Garmin Glo that will pair with your phone/tablet via Bluetooth and give you higher accuracy and refresh rates. I'm going to assume maybe you aren't a huge mobile tech guy here...

I didn't miss your point, I just disagree with you. Typical phone GPS is 1hz and I use a Bluetooth gps that is 10hz with no delay. GPS speed isn't inherently a rounded number, any rounding would be done in the app you are using to display it so use a better one instead. The main goal for most...

Hook the negative lead from the battery tender to the frame ground of the truck. The IBS sits right on top of the negative terminal of the main battery, so you want any current going in/out to pass through that.

It's funny that you will trust the distance from your gps but not the speed when they both use the same location information. Using mile markers on the highway would make more sense, but the best answer is to just use your gps speed and cruise control.

Are you guys connecting directly to the battery terminals with the charger? You might be bypassing the IBS and making the PCM think the battery is low when it isn't.