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I have a set of 35x10.50 klevers on the way and am curious what you guys have settled on for tire pressure with these. I am aware of the chalk test but would love to hear from people who have some miles on these since they seem to be getting popular.

If they already changed it then you should wait

Pull an oil sample and send it to Blackstone so you have a record. You're at the mercy of the dealer if you want the work done under warranty, but at least this will give you a leg to stand on if you suspect there is engine damage.

I wouldn't make a habit out of doing that ?

It should only brake the spinning wheel. On a positive note, you can get a tazer and use the brake assisted turn feature since you have open diffs. If you had a rear lsd you wouldn't be able to.

It's generally a good idea to open the fill port first on a diff/transmission/flux capacitor so you don't get in a situation where you've drained it and can't get the fill port open to refill it with oil.

I don't mind letting the v6 rev out once in a while when I need the power, but it seems to bother a lot of people. Can't deny that low end torque feels good on big displacement/long stroke motors though.

It's weird that people want a truck to be quick. The 3.6 paired with the 8 speed feels great to me, and if I want to go fast I have a car for that.

He could have added adjustable control arms after installing the Mopar lift

I baby my gladiator and it breaks down on me. That guy rolls his into a ditch and they just flip er over, fire it up, and drive it back down the trail. I'm so confused.

None of these products are soaking into metal, it's not a porous material. This seems to be a common misconceptions for some reason. Some products bond to the surface better than others, but they are not penetrating into the steel at all.

I'll admit I dread working under my truck because of the mess, but I also don't want an undercoating that hardens up and can lift off the metal. I'm not sure there is a perfect product that does it all, so you just have to pick your poison I guess.

I'm talking about where it's in the 3-4k range and just hangs there for a few seconds after you've crested the hill. It eventually upshifts, but it's a long enough delay to be annoying.

I was wondering about the paddle shifters for that scenario since you normally have to move the shifter over from the D position to manually shift. Do you still have to do that for the paddle shifters? Seems like the truck would fight your inputs if you didn't.

Mine hangs onto gears for an uncomfortably long time when I'm towing, it doesn't seem to like the additional load. If it really bothers me I just manually shift it. I wish they would tweak the shift logic a tad for those conditions, but overall I'm very happy with the 8 spd

Maybe there is another definition of "MSRP" that we don't know about?

A lot of the reason I went with the gladiator was for the pentastar since it's a normal port injection motor and most people seem to agree it's a proven platform. I baby this thing, keeping it in the garage on a battery tender all the time and drive it every couple weeks to keep it from sitting...

My neighbor has been trying to lemon law a brand new Silverado that had a misfire issue from day 1, it's been at the dealer pretty much the whole year and is getting a complete engine replacement now. New vehicles seem like a crapshoot anymore :no:

I looked at those too, they are so cool. My wife loves the unique older vehicles (because she doesn't have to work on them) and the LC is right there near the top of the list.

I actually had some parts waiting on me when I got home from this trip: This box has the rear springs I needed for my 2" Mopar lift. I ordered it from the official Mopar site a month ago and paid for overnight shipping to get it well before this trip. They were 2 weeks late on the delivery so...