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Your best bet would be a camera underneath. The noise will travel the entire suspension and frame which makes it hard to find. I had a similar noise. At one point I thought it was the wheel bearings. I put cameras underneath and found out it was the rear pinion bearing.

At the time I had moved back home to FL, was living in TX, and before that SC. So mostly warmer climates. Mostly flat except when I travel to wheel. But I do a lot of rock crawling, tow trailers regularly, and daily drive. Most people probably don't work their gladiator as much as I do, so...

Well.... you know how it goes. When you fix something yourself, they can't profit.

Exactly! It really wasn't all that hard. I guess it would be trying to keep fluid from getting all over the floor. If you follow the steps to drain, refill, and how to go through the gear selector, it's a little easier than it seems.

I know you're asking about a 60K mile change, but here is a clip of when I changed my transmission fluid at 181K. You can see the difference in 181K fluid and new fluid. I usually make videos for my youtube channel of all the work and do and my wheeling trips, but I didn't make a video of my...

You're welcome. I actually hope that's not your problem and it's something simpler and cheaper. Keep us updated. Good luck!✌🏾

I would advise you to check more than the front. Sound will travel throughout the suspension and frame. I had the same issues once and thought it was a bad bearing. It sounded very loud on the front end and right from the driver's side. I pulled the bearings and threw on my other set. I've owned...

I had airbags for over 4yrs and they worked out good. But the airsprings that I have now are better. The can support more weight and unlike the air springs on full size trucks, they're not connected to the axles which means they don't interfere with flex when offroading. As far as heavier duty...

Your choices are probably going to be either Heavier duty springs or Air Springs (Not airbags).

Right?! I have four trailers that I use with both my RAM and Gladiator. I'd rather use them over the bed for a lot of equipment. Even in the RAM with the bigger bed.

The Apex tie rod and drag link ends are shot. I put stock equipment back on and issues are gone. I did a side by side comparison of the bars and there's a lot more movement in the Apex ends than the stock ends.

My pinion bearings weren't that old either. It wasn't because of the age of the bearings, it's the design that was the issue. But yea.... when you get a chance, just check it out.

It does look a little more than normal, but I'm not sure about excessive. I recently had to put my stock tierod back on because of excessive movement with Apex tierod ends. And it was causing a wobble. Check out this video to see what I mean.

Not saying this is the issue, but maybe it's your pinion bearing.

And here's the crazy thing, I have an aftermarket battery and aftermarket terminals and I still have to keep a shim in between the terminal and the post to keep it tight. Crazy! And I just went through the same thing with my tractor. I have never even touched the battery. But a few weeks ago...

In my opinion, I FEEL like @mtudb24 is close to what your issue might be. A loose connection would give a false reading to the alternator that the battery is low so the alternator is working harder trying to charge the battery. For me, it was the negative battery cable terminal. I had to put a...

Sorry it took so long to reply!!! But I didn't see anything on them. Crazy that you asked that because when you fill out the warranty claim form, you have to search for and enter a batch number. But I didn't see anything on them. I can tell you that a local shop here that works on Jeeps and...

Both are useless....

The stock tie rod is steel, but the aftermarket tie rod is aluminum. I never had an issue with the stock steel tie rod, It's the aftermarket tie rod with the issues. More so the tie rod ends. The ends are steel though. But... the Apex tie rod and drag link assembly are aluminum. As far as the...