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looks good... dropped from 37's for towing my TJ to the trails.

It's cheaper that way! It costs money to take them off-roading. I'm currently fixing my locker on my TJ which lead to needing a new ring and pinion (thick cut stock rubicon locker vs standard cut grizzly locker), which lead to a mistake, which lead to needing a (second) new set of bearings to...

Saw this on a facebook group and thought to pass it on since I didn't see it here yet. 12v jeep gladiator at Walmart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/12v-Jeep-Gladiator/248109548

You don't have to. I didn't use it for my leveling kit. A shock extension (or longer shocks) would get you that extra inch of down travel for off-roading with the sway bar disconnected.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/forums/tri-city-jeep.40/ I did MAS and saved a few thousand off MSRP and didn't feel like driving to NC. Might of been another $1000 cheaper with Travis.

Dealership flashed it and said to bring it back if it comes on again so they could take a few things apart and check it out. They also said the push button start sometimes glitches and the code appears.

JLU sliders are too short and won't reach the rear fender

https://smile.amazon.com/Original-EZ-Flares-Universal-Flexible/dp/B0794BXHSQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=36SQ7WCRDTWLF&dchild=1&keywords=stick+on+fender+flares&qid=1595547468&sprefix=stick+on+fenders+%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-5 I'm in Ceciltucky and have my stock 33's. I'll trade you for a day or 2.

What about what my gladiator did TO me today. At 5036 miles, the check engine light came on and threw a code of P0300 as well as the Avengers sign (start/stop fault). Turn it off, then back on and now just a check engine light. Mmm... cleared it with the tazer and drove around for a while...

I had to pop the connector off of the christmas tree clip in the foot well so i could see the pins and straighten them, without doing that, its too hard to tell if they are straight. It still took a few tries to get it right, as the pins kept bending. I haven't taken the doors off since...

Same here. Rubicon, wheels: 17x8.5 with 5.02 backspacing. tires: 37x12.50, lift: 1.5 inch front leveling kit (1 inch after bumper/winch added), 3/4 inch rear. 1.5 inch bumpstop front, 1 inch rear. Haven't rubbed fender yet. I may take 1/2 inch bumpstop out of the rear. For the rear I used...

Yes, the 201 class. Next will be a blue guided ride or maybe just go on my own ride - I don't like that the day ends at 3pm, seems a bit too short for the distance I'm driving to get there.

Rausch Creek on Sunday.

the mats fit ok, just a slight hump now, but you only need to do that if you are going off-roading and plan to see some water obstacles., the rest of the time put the plugs in the mats, not the floor.

Doors on, the door gaskets seal well enough to keep the water out, just don't stop in the water, keep driving to get out of it, or eventually it will find a way in. Also, be sure to put your drain plugs in the actual floor pan hole, I forgot to and left my drain plugs in the Mopar floor mats...

that air tube channels air from the grill area to the air box, watch the rugged ridge snorkel install video and you'll see what I'm talking about. the 30inches is for the electronics and breather tubes in stock form

Mr. T showing you some support.

in the snorkel instructions and kit, it provides a few of those black plastic christmas trees and says to use some black RTV to plug the drain holes in the airbox

I found the answer. I had to get in there and really look at the pins. Narrowed it down to the drivers door pins in the footwell. I had 5 pins bent. If that plug isn't lined up perfectly when you go to flip the white lever, it will bend stuff but still shut easily. AND...WHAT YOU HAVE ALL...

you can RTV the holes closed