As far as the turning radius, PSC may have put a delrin bushing in the ram itself that limits ram travel. This is so the ram isn't trying to push past the steering stops in some shorter stroke applications. Have someone crank and hold the wheel while you see where the knuckle is in relation to...
I run a catch can (J&L) and it does effectively keep a fair amount of crap from recirculating back into intake tract. I also have forced-induction, so I don't want that gunk on my charge air cooler. That's important for good thermal xfer and if I end up operating at an extreme angle where oil...
The AEVs were good springs, tho I am 100% happy with the switch. In either case, I was/I am oversprung, but the Jeep seemed to ride a little better with AEV. I run adjustable shocks, so I can dial things in to suit whatever it is I am doing (on road, off road, towing) and that helps a lot.
The...
Running Clayton's 3.5 HD rear springs and Clayton diesel 3.5s up front but I have a 3.6; I just have some extra weight. That pic I posted above is with a 1 inch Teraflex spacer if I remember correctly.
I had them on for a few weeks and just didn't care for them with my setup. AEV makes a great product, the HD springs just didn't fit my use case. When unloaded it was just too much rake for me to stay with them since I usually only have a 100 lbs in the bed. Adding a load on the hitch helped-...
I did the RimRocker last summer pulling a trailer, but not one of that size... my JT has a supercharger, lol.
The JT could do it, that trailer is not going to make it without damage if the intent is to do it all without breaking off. My previous trailer was the size of your rig.
Just my...
Not sure who you're directing this to, but I have it as light duty insurance to help keep things charged when I am out in BFE. I also have auxiliary and redundant power systems to ensure power is not a problem. At a minimum, it keeps the battery charge optimal, regardless of battery MTBF and...
I run a smaller Lensun kit, 35w, and it puts out enough to keep my battery charged, even with low current draw that I have. The 50w for the Rubicon hood doesn't work because of the bend in the hood. I had Lensun replace a 50w because the tested output wasn't what it should have been for 50...
Bells and whistles you say? There is now a local shop selling these. I spoke to them about shelves and solid panels. Interestingly you have to pay more for non-glass panels. By the time you get shelves and the solid panels, cost rose to SmartCap range.
I'm with you on not buying Ching Chong Chinese BS, but if I can buy a product with the same failure rate for less, well I guess the best thing to do is not to buy either of them. It's a shame people have to spend money and warranty products back multiple times to figure that out.
You either don't value time and money or you subscribe to the Craftsman business model where it's cheaper to replace a POS ratchet than build a quality one. Maybe we revisit when yours fail.
After looking at a new Smittybilt winch gearset years ago, I crack open the gearbox and apply standard NLGI2 high pressure grease on each winch I install (at installation). Adds some piece of mind. I also try to clean contactor connections and spray with dielectric when in there.
I dont get it, but sometimes in the morning, I pop the fuel cap and take a deep breath to get my day started with some power. Works with VP and Turbo Blue as well.
Come to think of it, this might explain some things. :surprised: