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If the speed sensor can actually come out with a long ball end 5mm allen, that would be great. Yes, I took the retaining bolt off… I’ll still be doing new brake pads and rotors before the end of the summer, regardless. So I will be using the puller and can share results after (sooner if the...

I’ve been attempting to get to my front right wheel speed sensor for the past week, but have been stymied by a seized-on rotor. I live in the coastal northeast and everything here rusts like crazy. After doing all the typical stuff (PB Blaster, hammers, torch, bolt through the caliper mount...

I was able to get 4 of 5 lugs off pretty quickly with the impact wrench. The fifth one just spun, but I was able to determine the issue was the chrome jackets on all of the lugs had been deformed (probably by the dealership‘s air tools). I ended up using a punch tool to open up the top of the...

Well, I ended up hammering on the 22mm socket and my breaker bar (even with a 4’ pipe) couldn’t get them to budge. I’ll hit it with the impact gun on Saturday. I have removed wheels before, but not many and not on my Gladiator. This seems weird to me, though:

I’m having the exact same issue with the lug nuts on my Overland. Tried 22mm, 7/8”, nothing quite fits. I also noticed that the lug nuts could spin about 10-20 degrees with just my fingers. To-date, I’ve only had the dealership rotate my tires. I am taking the front right wheel off today...

I found this thread as well—I think I’ll check for some poorly spliced wires… https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/solved-help-with-abs-issue-anyone-had-to-something-similar-looking-for-ideas.83341/

::BUMP:: I just had similar error lights pop up when I was a couple minutes from home. I ran JSCAN and got the following errors, starting with “right front wheel speed sensor - circuit current out of range”. Anyone else had this error recently?

Saw this for the first time today:

I used to pull my 21’ Baja Islander bow rider out from boat ramps using my old Nissan Murano. The Gladiator should do fine. If you get a bad feeling about getting the truck down so close to the water, leave it in the parking lot and see how fast you can get the boat to skip up the ramp...

Did the mounting bracket come with an adhesive heat shield, or did you have to get it separately?

If you have any recommendations on what to use for recoating or which rust inhibitors to go with, I‘d appreciate any advice.

I was drawn to it’s use up here in the North East, primarily because it was a great way to get low-mount amber lights for snowy conditions (I think we all know how bad the standard LED lights are in a snow storm).

I have had the skid plate installed for about two years (early adopter). For what it is worth, I am confident it has not actually had any scrapes—just seems to rust and the coating flakes away easily so I try not to touch it.

This is the only part in my Jeep which rusts. What’s your best advice on addressing this? Do I need to pull it and strip it entirely for recoating?

Homie tows his Roman.com pallet shipments with the stock 3.73 gears and aftermarket K&N which adds AT LEAST 350HP.

17.2 fixed everything. I was having to connect/reconnect multiple times prior to 17.2. After 17.2, it connects the first time, every time.

Which ones did you try?

Based on my own informal summary of the posts on this site, it seems the Gladiator model years to avoid are 2020 and up. The ‘62 through ‘71 model years are exceptionally reliable, based solely on the absence of technical complaints across the forum.

I’m sorry about the run of bad luck. Did you think about fixing the bumper and then somehow end up blacking out your tailgate?