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Good points, but you're missing the major benefit of taller tires when airing down. Yes, they start out wider, and the contact patch does get a *bit* wider as you air down... but if you air down enough you're starting to use sidewall to gain width in contact patch. The tread is only so wide...

There are a lot more trails out there than just the Rubicon. The Gladiator has a very long wheelbase and terrible break-over clearance. I think I remember reading a Gladiator needs a 2" lift and 37"s to have the same break-over as a bone-stock JLUR. Also, going down the trail a taller tire...

Maybe not the Jeep you had in mind, but this is my Wife's Trackhawk: -TJ

Really looking forward to hearing your results, also great looking Gladi! -TJ

Do you honor this on any Jeep model? -TJ

I do the same (test drive, order exactly what we want) and I've even had some overnight test drives... but I've never had a dealer allow towing or more than an overnight. -TJ

What dealer are you working with that is going to allow that, especially towing with a brand new vehicle that isn't past the required 500 miles? -TJ

The non-functional stock vents? -TJ

Oh? Do you have data to support that? -TJ

Thanks again for collecting that data. It's definitely good to know, and reaffirms what I would have expected... but will silence the "take the 37s off that's your problem" crowd. If anything, only 1 degree higher ECT for 3 degree less ambient would be data supporting the 37"s might help, if...

Thanks for putting in the work to collect this data for us. Your findings confirm what I would have expected, and I agree the most effective place for vents would be the forward area of the hood. -TJ

Yes, but it's a closed system so the longer some coolant stays in the radiator to cool off, the longer other coolant is staying in the engine and taking in more heat. It's sort of a zero-sum game. Newton's Law of Cooling states that you want the biggest heat differential between the coolant...

Yeah, that certainly seems to be the situation. Fingers crossed for a 5.7 Hemi... Since starting this thread I've read, and contributed to that thread. Thanks. At least I save some money, I guess... -TJ

So if 190 is fine, how does a lower t-stat (180 vs. factory 195) extend the warm up? I'm not running no t-stat. I'm not running a 120 t-stat. 180 is fully warmed up, so a 180 t-stat makes ZERO difference in the warm-up time. -TJ

Too bad we didn't get pics of you winching the giant downed tree of the road... -TJ

I admit, I did not read the whole thread. But that seems to seal the coffin on my Diesel JT Rubicon dreams. Thanks again for the honest feedback and data. -TJ

Extremely useful, real-world data. Thanks for that! I'm in the Bay Area, well, kinda split between Bay and Vegas but the Gladiator, were I to get one would be for the Bay and towing my 2800lbs off-road trailer. Lots of places I go are up your way, so I'd regularly be hitting those same grades...

Too cool? With my 180 t-stat and modified fan settings (well, completely different fans/controller but that's another story) it still never runs under 190 once warmed up. 190 is way, way above the cold-start enrichment thresholds. What is "too" cold about 190? What downsides are there to...

Dude, read my post. I am saying you want a nice all-AL radiator, not brass nor bonded plastic/AL. -TJ

You are right, and wrong at the same time. You're making lots of odd assumptions and thinking about things in a very lab-centric way, not real-world. I don't think any of us are talking bout parking at the base of a grade over-night, letting the vehicle fully cool down, then starting it and...