Hey Benny, @AllMoparParts.com
I'm looking for the following suspension parts (putting together a budget lift for the in-laws new wrangler with a mix of OEM and aftermarket stuff) and I'm hoping you can get all of these items shipped to my door? Are all available?
68414067AA (2x)
68414068AA...
Over the weekend I completed a clutch replacement on my '21 JTR 6MT. I started this project 3/15 and didn't actually finish it until 3/23, however I really only worked on it Saturday 3/15 - Sunday 3/16 and then nothing until Saturday 3/23 because of work priorities and none of those days were...
I do this too. It's not that uncommon for mine to sit for a week or more. When I know that it's going to sit for a while, I have an extra battery tender that I will plug in using the 7 pin.
I debated back and forth over 4.88 and 5.13s for a long time. The general consensus, as I'm sure you have read, is that for the 6MT you should bump up an extra ratio compared to the normal size with a given tire size and the 8AT. So most people recommend a 4.88 with a 37 for the 8AT and a 5.13...
I lived with that tire on my 6mt for almost a full year before I got 4.88s. It was fine around town but you really find yourself in "the wrong gear" a lot and have to downshift more frequently just for mild acceleration. Its not ideal but it is workable. I really am enjoying the 4.88s now.
This might make you feel good now that you are done, I had 4.88s installed last Monday. It was almost $1500 in labor. It's a pretty good savings to just DIY. I had been planning to do gears for a year now, and hadn't planned the time to do it. I knew the only way it would finally happen was if I...
Part numbers are listed in some of the nhtsa recall information. How these may correspond to other clutch kits, idk. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2023/RCRIT-23V116-5552.pdf
They look a little odd for usual mopar part numbers but this one claims to be the pressure plate and clutch disc and...
right but calculated load is typically a known value for an ECU anyway and it gets that based on MAP and TPS, etc., and the more load its seeing the more likely it might determine that the amount of slip its seeing is creating more heat as well. Knowing what size tires and gear ratio its in...
well that is really interesting. I wonder if there is some calculated load table that the PCM is using that is causing this. I also wonder if it takes axle gear ratio into the equation as well. For example 37s with 4.10s being bad end of the table but 37s with 4.88s or 5.13s is in an acceptable...
It’s not really a crack. It’s just where the outer wall starts and ends. You can tune setting and speeds to minimize it but it’s always there. My guess is you are hiding the seam using “sharpest corner” setting. That’s why you can’t see it on the pattern area and only see it on the round...
With the door back on the truck, I put a zip tie (or rope) through the screw hole in the door check and then tightened the loop around the screw and just pinched it under the screw head. Then gently open the door and it will come out like normal, remove the screw and zip tie (or rope) and put...
eh close. Nothing on this particular part moves. It's all solid and that thing is actually just a tab that fills a void, but good eye because this is part of a chassis for a 10/22. Think Enoch ODIN, but different design to be plastic and thus more affordable. The fcg goes in front of that tab...
The first black thing is a project for me. Just a crazy orientation that I am amazed worked.
the second black parts are a “widdle wadder” and some “widdle wecoverwy boards” that I’m going to mail to a friend for his 4Runner. He doesn’t know it so it will be a fun surprise
And the weird silver...
I was in Crystal River FL for work a little while back and got to the hotel in the evening and the closest open spot by room was next to a JL Rubicon. As I was unsure what to expect for the job the next morning, I took it as a positive sign