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I think just about everybody would enjoy having this feature, it’s more of a matter of at what cost? I’m not exactly where the line would be drawn but over a certain amount it would be cool but not worth it

It’s true that you can’t turn it off, other than by pressing the button, but you can take your auxiliary out of the circuit by bypassing it, which can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

If you reconnected the negative battery cable and suddenly had zero power whatsoever then you probably hooked up the wrong cable. Different model years have been known to switch those around.. does sound like maybe fuse array though

I put that in my 21 and no problems.. might opt for amsoil next time but hard to say anything bad about Lucas.. it is the correct specs if that’s what you’re asking

I would definitely give the bypass a try before buying a new main battery (I would charge it tho). If still experiencing issues replace the main. That should fix the start stop issue. As to whether or not it will fix your screen issue I have no idea, I would say likely not but you never know

I sure as hell think so. People on here will defend ASS like it’s some kind of religion but it’s just a stupid emissions gimmick to save a few droplets of gas while wearing out your starter faster.. it’s healthier for the motor to just stay running. I would highly recommend but to each their own

Yes, but you have to bypass it. There’s quite a few videos you can find on YouTube about it but the easiest way is to disconnect the auxiliary negative cable from the main battery and tape it off and then pull fuse F42 so the computer no longer checks for that battery.. then you want to always...

If you bypass the auxiliary battery, you can save yourself a lot of money and time, and future headaches.. and then just replace your main battery with an H7 AGM

Because they can have “false readings” that lock your brakes up thinking something is there, but actually isn’t. So I view this “safety” feature as more dangerous than not having it. Many people excuse distracted driving, but really your eyes should be kept on the road. Yes, I change the radio...

I heard for the manual it doesn’t work at speeds below 15 mph. I do have a manual but can’t speak to that feature because I would never want that forward collision warning on my vehicle

What lifter tick? 🤷‍♂️

Actually come to think of it, you can check if that’s your problem. Shift the transfer case to 4H, if the light stays on 2H when you do that, that’s likely your problem. If it changes to 4H it’s probably a different issue

I have a 2021 manual with the recall work on the clutch.. the solution to this same problem for me was replacing the transfer case position sensor. Mine drove normally, but I was told the 4wd probably wouldn’t have worked properly if I had tried to use it. After the fix, I never saw the service...

I did the 7mm silicon vacuum hose and it worked great as well. Try it, might cost you $10 - $15 at most

I’m going to ride out the AAL lights as long as I can.. they’ve worked great though the yellowing is a bit disappointing.. next set I’ll probably try the rugged ridge ones

I changed mine with the Tazer JL mini.. It does all kinds of cool stuff and you can adjust your tire size so the speedo is calibrated properly

Check out the Readylift terrain flex max 4" lift. It's a far more complete kit and comes with the Falcon monotube shocks (it's 3" in the rear so it levels it as well). That's what I have on mine and I think it rides great...

What should I name mine?

I love my Falcon monotube 2.1s, I think they're a little more expensive in the $900 range for all 4 but really well made. They're known to be on the stiffer side but might be good for your added weight. I don't prefer the bouncy cushy shocks and these feel great rounding tight corners and a vast...