Uconnect screen glitching out!

[Sigz]

My thus far 2022 jeep gladiator sport S has developed a weird issue with the Uconnect screen. I was driving on my way into work today. It was raining but nothing too crazy and all of a sudden my screen started to glitch out.

I figured it was some weird electrical gremlin that would reset itself, but alas, it has not.

I have pulled fuse 97 according to the forum
and I also have disconnected the negative terminal to my battery and it is still doing it.

Any ideas?

I’ll share a link to the video of what it’s doing

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[Sigz]

Anybody with any thoughts or ideas?

Man it's been a rough couple weeks with life issues. This is like the last thing I want to be dealing with.

 

[YGBSM]

That's a new Uconnect problem Brent. My guess is that it's way beyond software. There's a mechanical fault at the screen. Is it still under warranty?

 

[YGBSM]

And sorry about the other stuff. Remember that you're an RN. Weight of the world on your shoulders, but nothing can stop you!

 

[Sigz]

That's a new Uconnect problem Brent. My guess is that it's way beyond software. There's a mechanical fault at the screen. Is it still under warranty?

Of course it’s out of warranty by a few months.

And look - new light this AM on my way into work!

Perfect! Wonderful!!

 

[FLAGladi]

It all just may be a battery issue. How old are your batteries?

 

[Pismo61]

It all just may be a battery issue. How old are your batteries?

About right for a 2022.This catches a lot of us off guard.

 

[Sigz]

It is a 2022 with original batteries.

Can you fine folks recommend a replacement for the main battery and aux battery?

And I assume this isn’t too bad of a DIY job?

If the dealer who is going to charge $250 for a diagnostic test - is just going to do the same thing while charging me a ton of money, I might just try and do it myself.

 

[NortonJTSS]

It is a 2022 with original batteries.

Can you fine folks recommend a replacement for the main battery and aux battery?

And I assume this isn’t too bad of a DIY job?

If the dealer who is going to charge $250 for a diagnostic test - is just going to do the same thing while charging me a ton of money, I might just try and do it myself.

If you bypass the auxiliary battery, you can save yourself a lot of money and time, and future headaches.. and then just replace your main battery with an H7 AGM

 

[Sigz]

If you bypass the auxiliary battery, you can save yourself a lot of money and time, and future headaches.. and then just replace your main battery with an H7 AGM

Can you elaborate - I don’t need the aux battery? Just get a new main battery and call it good?

If you bypass the auxiliary battery, you can save yourself a lot of money and time, and future headaches.. and then just replace your main battery with an H7 AGM

 

[Sandman 4x4]

As a last resort try a two button rest shutdown. With the key on acc hold down the volume knob and tuning knob to the screen blacks out. Then wait for it to come back. Good luck!

 

[NortonJTSS]

Can you elaborate - I don’t need the aux battery? Just get a new main battery and call it good?

Yes, but you have to bypass it. There’s quite a few videos you can find on YouTube about it but the easiest way is to disconnect the auxiliary negative cable from the main battery and tape it off and then pull fuse F42 so the computer no longer checks for that battery.. then you want to always use the auto start stop off button because that system still can run off the main battery even with the aux out of the loop. Then you won’t ever have to replace it which is a pain in the ass to get to, expensive, and can cause other limp mode and electrical issues when it goes

 

[Sigz]

As a last resort try a two button rest shutdown. With the key on acc hold down the volume knob and tuning knob to the screen blacks out. Then wait for it to come back. Good luck!

It never even goes to a black out. But I had the key on run. Does it need to be on acc?

Yes, but you have to bypass it. There’s quite a few videos you can find on YouTube about it but the easiest way is to disconnect the auxiliary negative cable from the main battery and tape it off and then pull fuse F42 so the computer no longer checks for that battery.. then you want to always use the auto start stop off button because that system still can run off the main battery even with the aux out of the loop. Then you won’t ever have to replace it which is a pain in the ass to get to, expensive, and can cause other limp mode and electrical issues when it goes

wow that sounds like it would be better.

 

[NortonJTSS]

wow that sounds like it would be better.

I sure as hell think so. People on here will defend ASS like it’s some kind of religion but it’s just a stupid emissions gimmick to save a few droplets of gas while wearing out your starter faster.. it’s healthier for the motor to just stay running. I would highly recommend but to each their own

 

[Sigz]

Do you guys think this could be the issue with the screen?

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