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I don’t think I’d be doing anything crazy with whoops or go fast in the desert. Would I still be able to get away without an internal spacer? Maybe if I do, I can see if that’s something ADS may be able to do when I rebuild the shocks. Eventually, I’ll switch over to some extended SS brake...

Specs from the site shows 30.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JL and 29.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JT.

Hey all, Just scored some ADS piggyback racing shocks for free (no seriously, it was free). However, it came from a JL. From my knowledge and a bit of researching, the fronts can be a direct fit for the front, but the rear may need some modification? I took a peek at the front and it seems to...

Yep, synergy requires it if you’re using the stock track bar. Probably cause if you bottom out, it’ll smack the brace. However, I found my answer. Checked the bump stop mounts for the Rubicon and there are already holes drilled into it so it’s just bolt on! Gonna go with Synergy.

So, the Steer smarts doesn’t state it needs 2” bump stops like the Synergy one does. Does the Rubicon need to be drilled out in order to install the 2” bump stops required for Synergy?

Damn it, I didn’t realize that I wasn’t getting enough clearance lately and so the remote reservoir has been hitting the top. How are you guys turning it on a stock Rubicon?

Has anybody ran this with a stock Rubicon? I’m reading through the fitments and it seems like for a stock Rubicon, you’ll need the bump stops installed as well…

No, the JK is also 1-5/8 tie rod.

If you get the JK kit, it’s already tie rod mounted so the kit includes the track bar stud and the tie rod clamp. If you want it axle mounted, then you’d go for the JL/JT version.

It isn’t bad. It’s just the fact that you don’t want to go full lock on the stabilizer versus the steering stops.

Got the confirmation from the Fox service techs. You’ll need someone to hold the steering wheel full lock to the right and then it should be a 1/4” from there.

Been eyeing this. Probably going for the GK knuckle mounts up from first.

Could you guys post a full lock to the passenger side photo for me to see? I’m wondering if I’ll need to adjust mine. Not sure if it’s pushing against the stabilizer when I’m turning all the way to the right. Earlier I pulled out of a parking spot and it felt like I needed to do a 2 point turn...

Then that’ll be the one. 985-02-127 is the regular TS axle mount for JT.

The part number listed above is the one that is Adjustable which is the ATS. The one you showed is just the TS.

Did you want the axle mount or the tie rod mount? If you want the axle mount then you’d want the Gladiator version which is FOX983-02-148 If you want the tie rod mount, you’d want the JK version. Otherwise, you’d have to buy the track bar stud and the clamp separately… which costs more. Ask...

Don’t understand why people buy trucks for MPG purposes. But meh, whatever floats your boat!

We just got the RubiRails from ExtremeTerrain. Only caveat was that 2 of the 10mm bolts were f$&@ed up from manufacturing defect and seems like QC didn’t catch those. Called ET and they offered a $210 credit or a replacement. Ended up taking the $210 and a multi-tool to the threads to grind...

I just installed this and it seems like the instruction manual was more towards the 4xe. Instead of the lower mounting area, I actually used the upper and the M8 coupler had fit there. I mounted to the bottom previously and the dead pedal just felt like it had too much play. Has anyone else...

Definitely for preventative measures for me and also that I’m eventually going 37/38 with some KMC GRS or Grenade Crawls.