ADS Piggyback Shocks

[pvn.jt24]

Hey all,

Just scored some ADS piggyback racing shocks for free (no seriously, it was free). However, it came from a JL.

From my knowledge and a bit of researching, the fronts can be a direct fit for the front, but the rear may need some modification?

I took a peek at the front and it seems to have offset sleeves, which is similar to a pair of the shocks, but the rear seems to have a smaller opening for the upper shock mount.

I plan to get these all rebuilt by ADS, but just trying to figure out some kinks before these get sent out for a rebuild.

Are there any major modifications needed to get these to fit from a JL application to a JT application?

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[Stan H]

Hey all,

Just scored some ADS piggyback racing shocks for free (no seriously, it was free). However, it came from a JL.

From my knowledge and a bit of researching, the fronts can be a direct fit for the front, but the rear may need some modification?

I took a peek at the front and it seems to have offset sleeves, which is similar to a pair of the shocks, but the rear seems to have a smaller opening for the upper shock mount.

I plan to get these all rebuilt by ADS, but just trying to figure out some kinks before these get sent out for a rebuild.

Are there any major modifications needed to get these to fit from a JL application to a JT application?

I would look up fully extended lengths . And also check about the offset on tbe lower end of the shock.

 

[pvn.jt24]

I would look up fully extended lengths . And also check about the offset on tbe lower end of the shock.

Specs from the site shows 30.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JL and 29.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JT.

 

[Stan H]

Specs from the site shows 30.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JL and 29.94 Extended Length for the rears on the JT.

Well, see if you can look up the length required for say a 3" lift or 2.5" lift may find they match up to the amount needed for a taller stance .

 

[CrazyCooter]

Fronts bolt in. The rears I think you could drill out the misalignment spacers to 14mm and then possibly install an internal spacer if the overall length is too long for your brake hoses or springs unloading.

Front drive line replacement would be required for a shock over 28.5-29"? Or install an internal spacer limiting the extended travel.

 

[Stan H]

Fronts bolt in. The rears I think you could drill out the misalignment spacers to 14mm and then possibly install an internal spacer if the overall length is too long for your brake hoses or springs unloading.

Front drive line replacement would be required for a shock over 28.5-29"? Or install an internal spacer limiting the extended travel.

Or a Suspension Strap

 

[pvn.jt24]

Fronts bolt in. The rears I think you could drill out the misalignment spacers to 14mm and then possibly install an internal spacer if the overall length is too long for your brake hoses or springs unloading.

Front drive line replacement would be required for a shock over 28.5-29"? Or install an internal spacer limiting the extended travel.

I don’t think I’d be doing anything crazy with whoops or go fast in the desert. Would I still be able to get away without an internal spacer? Maybe if I do, I can see if that’s something ADS may be able to do when I rebuild the shocks.

Eventually, I’ll switch over to some extended SS brake lines.

I haven’t taken any measurements yet, but the currently bushings on the ADS rears seem to be much wider than most rear shocks for the JT.

I’m still fairly new to understanding what’s needed to properly lift a JT.

I know I’m going to have to swap springs out but for the fronts, do you need to replace the control arms? Geometry correction brackets? Shock extension brackets? Extended sway bar links?

What about the rears? Springs is going to be a must, but what about the control arms? Probably extended sway bar links too?

Can the stock track bar be used? Tie rod?

I know I’ve got a lot of reading to do and researching. This is definitely different than IFS, lol.

I’d appreciate it if you guys can educate me on this!

 

[Stan H]

I don’t think I’d be doing anything crazy with whoops or go fast in the desert. Would I still be able to get away without an internal spacer? Maybe if I do, I can see if that’s something ADS may be able to do when I rebuild the shocks.

Eventually, I’ll switch over to some extended SS brake lines.

I haven’t taken any measurements yet, but the currently bushings on the ADS rears seem to be much wider than most rear shocks for the JT.

I’m still fairly new to understanding what’s needed to properly lift a JT.

I know I’m going to have to swap springs out but for the fronts, do you need to replace the control arms? Geometry correction brackets? Shock extension brackets? Extended sway bar links?

What about the rears? Springs is going to be a must, but what about the control arms? Probably extended sway bar links too?

Can the stock track bar be used? Tie rod?

I know I’ve got a lot of reading to do and researching. This is definitely different than IFS, lol.

I’d appreciate it if you guys can educate me on this!

If you surpass 1.5-2.0" yes geometry brackets or adjustable lower control arms will be need to correct the lack of caster caused by pulling up the vehicle . As the springs increase in height the axle is pulled back under the truck toward the driver . From factory it comes with a 6° caster (most of the time) this is where you will want to get it back to after you go up in height. The stock tie rods can be used if no seriously off roading is done. But after a lift is installed it is recommended to get an alignment . Back to the truck going up . As it goes up the axle is also pulled to the drivers side . I suggest that anything over 1.5" of additional height an adjustable front track bar be installed . Then taking a tape measure . Measure from the top of the front upper spring cup to the inside of the front tire. As you go up it will be a longer measurement on the drivers side. The goal of a adjustable front track bar is to once again center thd front wheels under the truck with as close as possible equal measurements on each side . After 2.5" the rear track will have to be replaced with an adjustable track bar for the rear . Measurements can be taken from the frame to the center of the top of the inside of the tire. After 3.0" a rear druveshaft lowering bracket bringing the draveshaft carrier bearing should be installed to bring the driveshaft into a more straight orientation. The stock front and rear track bars are NOT adjustable and designed for no lift. When you buy a full or base lift it will come with longer sway bar link brackets.

 

[RudeJeepin]

If your planning to send them into ADS, why not give them a call and see what they say? They probably can make any adjustments needed.

 

[Hootbro]

Free can get expensive. Is the juice worth the squeeze here?

 

[CrazyCooter]

Free can get expensive. Is the juice worth the squeeze here?

That's the bottom line here.....

You state that you don't plan to do anything crazy, so why bother? Something much cheaper off the shelf would probably do you just as well for your use?

You ether need to limit travel with a strap or spacer if you don't plan to change out the front driveline or it will contact the exhaust and/or crossmember and damage your Rzepa joint boot up front. Then in the rear, you spring could fall out on full extension if the spring has a shorter extended length and your brake hose is only good for about 28"?


I pick the spacer because it's it's much easier to do this while the shock is open than mounting axle straps.

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