2024 Willys versus Mojave

[Yock]

Hey folks,

I'm excited I'm about to be a new owner of one of these models. To preface, I'm all in on 2024 for a variety of reasons, so I do understand I'm spending money otherwise could be saved on a 2023 if I found one that matched my liking. I'm brand new to Jeep stuff, never rode a trail, done mud stuff in my trade-in (F150 Tremor), and pretty green in general here.

I have two similarly decked out models that I'm looking at. Out the door the Mojave is 12k more than the Willys. If I were to get the Mojave I'd keep it bone stock for a long time outside of a sound system, but If I went the Willys, I'd want to do the 2.5 inch lift, and put katskinz on the seats, and get a spray-in bed liner so that's ~5-6k for those three things (plus the sound system too of course.)

Since I'm new, I'm unsure where to make a line-in-the-sand decision on which way to go. On one hand, that additional 12k isn't a burden, but it does mean I finance that 12k instead 'walking away' with the title on the Willys day 1, fully owned. I posed this same question elsewhere with mixed results, but many seemed to lean towards Mojave. I drive ~8k miles a year atm, much more if I get into trail riding and such I'm sure since I could use a new hobby anyway. My wifes vehicle is the 'family vehicle' but is also an EV so if we took a super extended roadtrip where planning became an issue, we'd need to take this for it with our kids.

I'm literally split 50/50 here. Same color, same features I want (Mojave has blind spot, which is nice, but not required), just no idea how to make a blind deterministic decision on if a Mojave is worth ~7k more. I have test drove a Willys, and a sport, but never a Mojave. This one is ~100 miles away and I can't get off work to buy it, so that's why I'm blind to the quality differences of the drive.

Bonus question: Is the new 2.5 lift kit with the remote reservoir Bilstein shocks good? I can't find much about them.

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[Gvsukids]

Hey folks,

I'm excited I'm about to be a new owner of one of these models. To preface, I'm all in on 2024 for a variety of reasons, so I do understand I'm spending money otherwise could be saved on a 2023 if I found one that matched my liking. I'm brand new to Jeep stuff, never rode a trail, done mud stuff in my trade-in (F150 Tremor), and pretty green in general here.

I have two similarly decked out models that I'm looking at. Out the door the Mojave is 12k more than the Willys. If I were to get the Mojave I'd keep it bone stock for a long time outside of a sound system, but If I went the Willys, I'd want to do the 2.5 inch lift, and put katskinz on the seats, and get a spray-in bed liner so that's ~5-6k for those three things (plus the sound system too of course.)

Since I'm new, I'm unsure where to make a line-in-the-sand decision on which way to go. On one hand, that additional 12k isn't a burden, but it does mean I finance that 12k instead 'walking away' with the title on the Willys day 1, fully owned. I posed this same question elsewhere with mixed results, but many seemed to lean towards Mojave. I drive ~8k miles a year atm, much more if I get into trail riding and such I'm sure since I could use a new hobby anyway. My wifes vehicle is the 'family vehicle' but is also an EV so if we took a super extended roadtrip where planning became an issue, we'd need to take this for it with our kids.

I'm literally split 50/50 here. Same color, same features I want (Mojave has blind spot, which is nice, but not required), just no idea how to make a blind determistic decision on if a Mojave is worth ~7k more. I have test drove a Willys, and a sport, but never a Mojave. This one is ~100 miles away and I can't get off work to buy it, so that's why I'm blind to the quality differences of the drive.

Bonus question: Is the new 2.5 lift kit with the remote reservoir Bilstein shocks good? I can't find much about them.

Ride is subjective, but many feel the Mojave rides the best. What lift are you looking to install on the Willy's? You might like the ride with the lift better than the Mojave. You'll also want to regear with the height as you'll be a bigger brick. 12k will go a long ways in paying for extras you'll want once you start wheeling.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/willys-or-mojave.43001/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/willys-or-mojave.70474/

 

[Yock]

Ride is subjective, but many feel the Mojave rides the best. What lift are you looking to install on the Willy's? You might like the ride with the lift better than the Mojave. You'll also want to regear with the height as you'll be a bigger brick. 12k will go a long ways in paying for extras you'll want once you start wheeling.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/willys-or-mojave.43001/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/willys-or-mojave.70474/

I forget about the regear necessity. There are no vehicles around here that have the advanced tow package for whatever reason, so that's certainly a necessity.

I'm just going to do the Mopar one: https://www.mopargenuineparts.com/sku/77072468ab-fs.html - not going to change tires/wheels for a while. I like the stock ones on the Willys. Once the rubber wears out I'd go with a bigger tire.

 

[ErylFlynn]

If you are going to lift it go Willy's. Most of the best parts of the Mojave is the suspension and if you lift it you throw that away. Only thing you will miss is the 4.10 gears.

 

[Yock]

If you are going to lift it go Willy's. Most of the best parts of the Mojave is the suspension and if you lift it you throw that away. Only thing you will miss is the 4.10 gears.

Nah, Mojave stays stock. Only lifting the Willys for A) Aesthetic and B) (maybe) better suspension.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I forget about the regear necessity. There are no vehicles around here that have the advanced tow package for whatever reason, so that's certainly a necessity.

Not sure what you mean by the comment about regear being necessary for towing, or something is necessary for towing?

Gear changes with the Willys would only be needed if you jump up over 33" tires - then maybe not so necessary, depending on your use.

What do you mean by "advanced tow package" - there really isn't any such thing.
It's either tow package or not unless you go to the Sport with max tow.

 

[Yock]

Not sure what you mean by the comment about regear being necessary for towing, or something is necessary for towing?

Gear changes with the Willys would only be needed if you jump up over 33" tires - then maybe not so necessary, depending on your use.

What do you mean by "advanced tow package" - there really isn't any such thing.
It's either tow package or not unless you go to the Sport with max tow.

Ah I forget the Max Tow doesn't come on the Willys, but I was looking at Sport S's and finally narrowed it down to Willys over those, so my wires are crossed some.

I do some light towing, but also planning on buying a small camper in a year or two depending how far the rabbit hole in this I go. Probably should have mentioned that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ah I forget the Max Tow doesn't come on the Willys, but I was looking at Sport S's and finally narrowed it down to Willys over those, so my wires are crossed some.

I do some light towing, but also planning on buying a small camper in a year or two depending how far the rabbit hole in this I go. Probably should have mentioned that.

Keep in mind, whatever the tow rating is of the Gladiator you buy will be reduced somewhat by modifications such as larger tires, lifts and so on.
So be sure to keep all of that in mind - and buy a camper according to what it was rated to tow minus a little bit for the modifications.
Check the payload numbers on the door sticker - every Gladiator will have a slightly different payload number depending on the model and options.

 

[Lunentucker]

So many variables, and some things you haven't mentioned and may not have considered.

Having owned a Mojave for over two years now, there isn't much I don't like about it, but there are some things I might would do differently on a new one.

1. Selec-Trac is a selectable automatic four wheel drive option that some prefer if they do a fair amount of driving on slippery roads. It could be particularly handy if you drive in areas that may have snowy or icy conditions on parts of the roads, whereas the system can get you into 4WD much quicker and on demand vs you manually shifting from 2H to 4H. Regardless of which trim I chose, I'd look for one with Selec-Trac.

2. What kinds of trails? - Mojave will have rear lockers standard, as well as some other features that are handy on specific kinds of trails, but not as useful as Rubicon's features on rocks and trails requiring a slower crawl and front and rear lockers.

3. If it is Mojave at stock height, I'd still install the slightly longer Mopar control arms to give it just a touch more positive caster.

These features set the Mojave apart, and are what account for much of the price difference.

Steel hood with faux scoop
Reinforced frame
Bolstered seats
Fox 2.5" internal bypass remote reservoir shocks
Wide Dana 44 axles
Cast iron knuckles
2.72:1 low range (up to 50 mph in 4 low)
4.10 gearing
1" taller than Rubicon in stock configuration
Hydraulic jounce bumpers
Strengthened front upper control arms
Strengthened lower control arm mounts
Strenghtened cross members
Reinforced shock towers
Rear track bar has a larger outer diameter, larger bushings, and a higher strength tube
Wheels 7.5 mm shallower backspacing than Rubicon
"Racing grips" steering wheel
Rear locker can run in 4 high in off-road plus mode
Orange things

 

[ShadowsPapa]

1" taller than Rubicon in stock configuration

Not by my measuring those on a lot here. Same as Rubicon.
In fact, the sill measurements, door opening sill where sill guards might be placed, is roughly the same as my Overland and I have only a 1.25" lift on it.
My Overland stands about the same as a Rubicon with my springs and rear spacer.
Not sure where the 1" comes from, but it's not frame to ground, or pinch weld of the body to ground, etc.
I was curious as to whether or not I could use my snow plow and current mounting brackets on a Mojave and determined - yeah, I could, because it's almost the same height as my Overland sits currently.

 

[ErylFlynn]

I like my Mojave, no regrets. But bear in mind if you plan to tow the Mojave has a lower tow rating. But like Shadow said, any lift, or just simple increase to the weight of the truck will reduce your tow capacity.

 

[Yock]

So many variables, and some things you haven't mentioned and may not have considered.

Having owned a Mojave for over two years now, there isn't much I don't like about it, but there are some things I might would do differently on a new one.

1. Selec-Trac is a selectable automatic four wheel drive option that some prefer if they do a fair amount of driving on slippery roads. It could be particularly handy if you drive in areas that may have snowy or icy conditions on parts of the roads, whereas the system can get you into 4WD much quicker and on demand vs you manually shifting from 2H to 4H. Regardless of which trim I chose, I'd look for one with Selec-Trac.

2. What kinds of trails? - Mojave will have rear lockers standard, as well as some other features that are handy on specific kinds of trails, but not as useful as Rubicon's features on rocks and trails requiring a slower crawl and front and rear lockers.

3. If it is Mojave at stock height, I'd still install the slightly longer Mopar control arms to give it just a touch more positive caster.

These features set the Mojave apart, and are what account for much of the price difference.

Steel hood with faux scoop
Reinforced frame
Bolstered seats
Fox 2.5" internal bypass remote reservoir shocks
Wide Dana 44 axles
Cast iron knuckles
2.72:1 low range (up to 50 mph in 4 low)
4.10 gearing
1" taller than Rubicon in stock configuration
Hydraulic jounce bumpers
Strengthened front upper control arms
Strengthened lower control arm mounts
Strenghtened cross members
Reinforced shock towers
Rear track bar has a larger outer diameter, larger bushings, and a higher strength tube
Wheels 7.5 mm shallower backspacing than Rubicon
"Racing grips" steering wheel
Rear locker can run in 4 high in off-road plus mode
Orange things

1) I live in the deep south. Ice/snow rarely a concern, 3-4 days a year, MAYBE. Mud? Sure, but only on purpose.

2) I don't have an answer for this one. The Jeep Badge trails near me are all 2-4's, nothing extreme I don't think. I have no idea what they have, I'm brand new to all of this. I'm mostly buying it for my "forever" vehicle, and since there's so many parts for these engines keeping it fixed in perpetuity should be easy.

3) I'll take a gander at this. Probably something I do myself after the fact.

Right, I know (most) of these differences, I'm just a novice to the capacity comparison of these vehicles. The cost isn't an issue as much as "if I upgrade the Willys to the new suspension/lift is that a good cost/benefit over the Mojave" among the other features. I doubt I do any incredibly crazy stuff.... but I don't know. I may love it, and start going nuts, and if I do I'd need to drive long distances for that, and the Mojave would be nice.

 

[Hootbro]

While not a apples to apples of what you are looking at, I have owned a WILLYS in-between the two Rubicon's I have owned and would recommend you go with the Mojave. You just run out of margins real quick with the WILLYS and the 3.73 gearing if you go anything beyond 33's with it.

 

[Yock]

While not a apples to apples of what you are looking at, I have owned a WILLYS in-between the two Rubicon's I have owned and would recommend you go with the Mojave. You just run out of margins real quick with the WILLYS and the 3.73 gearing if you go anything beyond 33's with it.

Thank you for your insight. I presume the re-gearing is an expensive endeavor?

As a newcomer it just seems the lines are blurred with the new options the Willys offers (Rubicon suspension (which of course I said I'd replaced), Rear-lock standard (same as Mojave), Same technology).

 

[Hootbro]

I presume the re-gearing is an expensive endeavor?

You are looking at $3K-$4K for a regear.

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