SKJeep
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In the journey of everyone with a 3.0L EcoDiesel searching for lower temps I seen only a few hints of a few folk running a water-meth injection but little to no information on the real details of what they did and outcomes. So here you go!
My 21 JTRD has the EOC Stage 2 with Trans Tune , EGR delete and T&S Speed Shop Exhaust. I have the AFE Charge Pipes and AFE Momentum cold air intake. Still running factory radiator. Axle gearing is 4.56 running 37" Toyo RT's.
I purchase the SNO-450 Diesel Stage 2.5 Boost Cooler Water-Methanol Injection Universal kit: https://nitrousexpress.com/diesel-s...ost-cooler-water-methanol-injection-universal
Main reason I purchased this one is that it has the Snow VC-50 Controller that fits into a banks A-pillar pod with minimal modification. The kit comes with everything you need except for the wiring. I have bulk wire so I made a custom wiring harness. I also welded a custom bracket to hold the 7 gallon tank and pump that secures to the bed rail system.
Install: Full disclosure the instruction that are available are almost worthless other that the wiring diagram and initial controller.
Wiring: All the wiring goes to and from the controller. I made 3 separate harnesses. 1 - Pressure Sensor is 3 16 gauge wire that installs on the hot air side of the AFE charge pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler. 2 - Power and Ground. This is 2 12 Gauge wire for positive and ground. I routed this from the drivers side A pilar to the accessory switch pig tails on the passenger side foot well. There is also 2 dedicated ground points just under the strap the door strap. I used Aux switch 2 pig tale. (Aux 1 & 2 have sufficient amp/power rating to run the system) 3 - wiring harness to tank. this is 3 wires ( One 12 gauge positive wire to pump from controller, one 12 gauge ground, and one 16 gauge level sensor wire) I have the solenoid mounted on a bracket attached in the area by the fuel filter which is protect by the Artec full belly skids. The solenoid opens to allow fluid flow to the injector when the pump has power.
Tank and Pump Mounting:
My initial thoughts where to repurpose the DEF tank but i did not want to mess with putting holes in it to plumb in the fluid outlet connection and fluid level sensor. I also had no concept of how much capacity I needed. The kit came with the 7 gallon tank. I dug in may scrap metal pile and welded a frame that would hold the tank securely and provide a mounting area for the pump. I made it so that it attaches to the Mopar rail system. This also makes it easy to remove if needed. I just have to unplug to wiring connectors and the disconnect and cap the fluid line to remove in needed.
Nozzle/Check valve & fluid line installation:
The nozzle/check valve are mounted to the cold air side of the AFE charge pipe from the intercooler to the engine intake. What is interesting is that the kit comes with the 4 gph nozzle even though the instructs say it has the 2.5 gph as default. A call to Nitrous Express explained that is was not a mistake as they ship all diesel application with the 4 gph. More thought on this in the fine tuning below. The fluid plumbing is straight forward. Route it from the pump to the nozzle and protect from hot stuff and area that can get hit when off road. I routed from tank from the small factory hold by the hold down D-ring in the bed and secured to the top of the frame rail come up at the drivers side fender to the cold charge pipe side.
Set up:
The controller is straight forward. You select the boost level for the injection start point and the max boost level for the full fluid flow. I started at a point that was about 3 psi above normal highway driving at 70 mph on flat road. This was around 15 psi for me. I put the max at 31 psi as this was the most I have seen my banks I dash show. (Here is my word of warning - do not ingest too much water-meth or you will have a very bad day) First testing at this level I could tell that it was to much flow. There is a injection flow curve between the start point to max that is controlled by the system. I do not turn wrenches daily anymore but I still am a ASE Master Tech. I could tell by the way the motor sounded and the feel in the pedal to power output. I adjusted the max setting up to about 40 psi boost to change the injection curve to do some more testing. I towed a 5000 pound trailer this weekend at interstate speed of 65 to 75mph for about 400 miles this weekend. The sweet spot I ending at was starting the injection at 20 psi of boost and setting the max at 37 psi. I think the 4 gph nozzle is to much. Snow has nozzles available in .5 increments. I think i am going to order the 2.5 or 3.0 nozzle and switch it out.
Results to date:
Towed about 400 miles pulling a 12X6 foot Uhaul box trailer with about 2500lbs of stuff in it. I used about 3 gallons of 50/50 water-methanol mixture. Engine exhaust temps where much cooler. I would say around 150 degrees cooler. Running hard at 75 mph I would bump into 1000 to 1100 degrees. Without the injection I would be higher around 1300 or so. The biggest impact was the lower EGT's kept the oil temp below 230 degrees the entire trip and the coolant temp never got over 220.
Pics below show temps on a similar incline in 8th gear versus 7th gear.
Final Thoughts:
This is not a faint of heart upgrade. You most likely will not find a shop to simply install it as there is a lot of fine tuning/adjustment needed and messing up has severe consequences. My opinion on the overheat issues is not the cooling system. The oil cooler in the oil filter housing does not have the capacity to cool the oil under a steady high turbo load such as running it 8th gear on a steady grade or headwind. Yes the engine has the grunt power to do it but the price you pay is high EGT's. I always put the transmission in Manual 7th gear or 6th gear depending on the grade. For me at 70 mph in 7th I am turning around 2600 rpm, this is around 3000 Rpm. 8th gear is for flat land or down hill for me. All the cooling system upgrades I see people doing does not hurt but it really comes down to how you drive the truck. The only reason I tow with my Gladiator is that I have a 20 foot Rockwood Geo Pro that goes to where my offroad destination is for the fun with the Jeep stuff. If I had to tow on a regular basis I would get different truck to tow with.
This is just my experience and thought. It does not mean that this is for everyone and it does not mean anything anyone else is doing to fight the overheating is wrong before I get any hate messages. It just is another avenue and different approach I am taking to fight the cooling issues. Good Luck!
My 21 JTRD has the EOC Stage 2 with Trans Tune , EGR delete and T&S Speed Shop Exhaust. I have the AFE Charge Pipes and AFE Momentum cold air intake. Still running factory radiator. Axle gearing is 4.56 running 37" Toyo RT's.
I purchase the SNO-450 Diesel Stage 2.5 Boost Cooler Water-Methanol Injection Universal kit: https://nitrousexpress.com/diesel-s...ost-cooler-water-methanol-injection-universal
Main reason I purchased this one is that it has the Snow VC-50 Controller that fits into a banks A-pillar pod with minimal modification. The kit comes with everything you need except for the wiring. I have bulk wire so I made a custom wiring harness. I also welded a custom bracket to hold the 7 gallon tank and pump that secures to the bed rail system.
Install: Full disclosure the instruction that are available are almost worthless other that the wiring diagram and initial controller.
Wiring: All the wiring goes to and from the controller. I made 3 separate harnesses. 1 - Pressure Sensor is 3 16 gauge wire that installs on the hot air side of the AFE charge pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler. 2 - Power and Ground. This is 2 12 Gauge wire for positive and ground. I routed this from the drivers side A pilar to the accessory switch pig tails on the passenger side foot well. There is also 2 dedicated ground points just under the strap the door strap. I used Aux switch 2 pig tale. (Aux 1 & 2 have sufficient amp/power rating to run the system) 3 - wiring harness to tank. this is 3 wires ( One 12 gauge positive wire to pump from controller, one 12 gauge ground, and one 16 gauge level sensor wire) I have the solenoid mounted on a bracket attached in the area by the fuel filter which is protect by the Artec full belly skids. The solenoid opens to allow fluid flow to the injector when the pump has power.
Tank and Pump Mounting:
My initial thoughts where to repurpose the DEF tank but i did not want to mess with putting holes in it to plumb in the fluid outlet connection and fluid level sensor. I also had no concept of how much capacity I needed. The kit came with the 7 gallon tank. I dug in may scrap metal pile and welded a frame that would hold the tank securely and provide a mounting area for the pump. I made it so that it attaches to the Mopar rail system. This also makes it easy to remove if needed. I just have to unplug to wiring connectors and the disconnect and cap the fluid line to remove in needed.
Nozzle/Check valve & fluid line installation:
The nozzle/check valve are mounted to the cold air side of the AFE charge pipe from the intercooler to the engine intake. What is interesting is that the kit comes with the 4 gph nozzle even though the instructs say it has the 2.5 gph as default. A call to Nitrous Express explained that is was not a mistake as they ship all diesel application with the 4 gph. More thought on this in the fine tuning below. The fluid plumbing is straight forward. Route it from the pump to the nozzle and protect from hot stuff and area that can get hit when off road. I routed from tank from the small factory hold by the hold down D-ring in the bed and secured to the top of the frame rail come up at the drivers side fender to the cold charge pipe side.
Set up:
The controller is straight forward. You select the boost level for the injection start point and the max boost level for the full fluid flow. I started at a point that was about 3 psi above normal highway driving at 70 mph on flat road. This was around 15 psi for me. I put the max at 31 psi as this was the most I have seen my banks I dash show. (Here is my word of warning - do not ingest too much water-meth or you will have a very bad day) First testing at this level I could tell that it was to much flow. There is a injection flow curve between the start point to max that is controlled by the system. I do not turn wrenches daily anymore but I still am a ASE Master Tech. I could tell by the way the motor sounded and the feel in the pedal to power output. I adjusted the max setting up to about 40 psi boost to change the injection curve to do some more testing. I towed a 5000 pound trailer this weekend at interstate speed of 65 to 75mph for about 400 miles this weekend. The sweet spot I ending at was starting the injection at 20 psi of boost and setting the max at 37 psi. I think the 4 gph nozzle is to much. Snow has nozzles available in .5 increments. I think i am going to order the 2.5 or 3.0 nozzle and switch it out.
Results to date:
Towed about 400 miles pulling a 12X6 foot Uhaul box trailer with about 2500lbs of stuff in it. I used about 3 gallons of 50/50 water-methanol mixture. Engine exhaust temps where much cooler. I would say around 150 degrees cooler. Running hard at 75 mph I would bump into 1000 to 1100 degrees. Without the injection I would be higher around 1300 or so. The biggest impact was the lower EGT's kept the oil temp below 230 degrees the entire trip and the coolant temp never got over 220.
Pics below show temps on a similar incline in 8th gear versus 7th gear.
Final Thoughts:
This is not a faint of heart upgrade. You most likely will not find a shop to simply install it as there is a lot of fine tuning/adjustment needed and messing up has severe consequences. My opinion on the overheat issues is not the cooling system. The oil cooler in the oil filter housing does not have the capacity to cool the oil under a steady high turbo load such as running it 8th gear on a steady grade or headwind. Yes the engine has the grunt power to do it but the price you pay is high EGT's. I always put the transmission in Manual 7th gear or 6th gear depending on the grade. For me at 70 mph in 7th I am turning around 2600 rpm, this is around 3000 Rpm. 8th gear is for flat land or down hill for me. All the cooling system upgrades I see people doing does not hurt but it really comes down to how you drive the truck. The only reason I tow with my Gladiator is that I have a 20 foot Rockwood Geo Pro that goes to where my offroad destination is for the fun with the Jeep stuff. If I had to tow on a regular basis I would get different truck to tow with.
This is just my experience and thought. It does not mean that this is for everyone and it does not mean anything anyone else is doing to fight the overheating is wrong before I get any hate messages. It just is another avenue and different approach I am taking to fight the cooling issues. Good Luck!
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